Hi, I'm not a rod biulder so this may be a no-brainer for you guys. I have a factory Daiwa Procaster UL spinning rod that I dearly love. The whole rod has started to turn in the handle. It won't pull out, but after about 3-4 casts you have to line the guides back up to the reel. It doesn't shake or rattle anywhere, the handles and seat are tight to one another, the rod just spins in the whole handle. I searched the archives for "re-gluing handles" but didn't have much luck. Is there any way I can fix this without destroying anything on the rod? It has a nice cork grip that I would like to keep. Thank you in advance for any ideas. Casey

Casey,

difficult to answer perfectly without seeing it . The correct solution would be to remove the handle and reel seat completely and then re-glue them. If you dont want to go to that extent you could try drilling a few small holes through the cork and reel seat and injecting epoxy resin into them. Whilst the resin is still wet spin the handle and reel seat to spread the adhesive but ensure it ends up correctly lined up with the guides. Once things are set you can fill and sand the holes in the cork. The reel seat is more difficult to disguise but some filler and a felt pen similar in colour to the reel seat will help.

Stan.

Thanks for the information, Stan. If I were to take the whole handle off, could it be done from the bottom of the rod? Otherwise I would probably have to remove the guides. Or do I need to clean the inside of the handle before I re-glue it? If not, maybe slide it up the rod to the first guide? If this can't be done, wich spot would be best to drill and glue, the cork or real seat (or both)? I don't mind if you can see the repairs, just don't want to feel them. Thanks again, Stan!

Casey,

sorry, again difficult to say without seeing it but assuming the handle was reamed properly to fit the taper of the blank then it may be difficult to remove it from the bottom of the rod. The blank will be thicker at the bottom than the bore at the top of the corks. If you can slide it up the blank towards the first guide then this would save you any boring of cork or reel seat. Having slid it up clean off the area where it had been glued and then check the type of build up used. It could be arbors, tape etc. New arbors may be needed using your choice of material (not getting into that can of worms). You may be able to clean the inside of the corks etc by pouring a mild cleaner down inside but nothing that would damage the blank. I have had few problems with methylated spirit. Once you are happy with the fit and have cleaned things as best you can apply epoxy to the grip position and simple slide back into place, spinning the grip as you go.

If you have to drill I would drill corks and reel seat. Not sure on the type of seat but as its a spinning rod and a Daiwa I`d assume a carbon Fuji type. If so there is a groove running the length of the back of the real seat which locates the screw reel hood fitting. Thats as good a place as any to drill and keeps you off the thread. On something like a size 16 reel seat you could probably get 4 or 5 holes (1/8th inch dia).
On the corks I`d spiral some holes up the cork possibly at 1 - 2inch centres and then spin everything to spread the adhesive.
Should mention here to drill the holes (on the cork at any rate) using a drill bit in your fingers, not an electric drill just in case you go too deep and damage the blank. Same for the reel seat but heat the point of the drill, protect your fingers and take your time.
There may well be some better methods by other posters, alternatively find a rod builder in your area on this forum who could help you, its not a major repair, me I`m UK.

Stan.

Is it the "whole handle" or just the reel seat that shifts? Where are you from? Maybe there's a builder/repairer in your area that could help...click on "tackleworks" to the left.

Casey,When you reglue make sure you use a slow cure epoxy so you dont run out of time injecting the epoxy and still hve time to align.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

The easiest way to FIX this rod is to apply the Jesse Buky Quickie Rod Repair. Buy a new reel seat - cut the old one in the center all the way around with a dremel tool - split off the two halves of the old seat from the blank - cut a piece of blank to insert in the center of the old blank as a post - make two seat arbors and install - apply Rod Bond - slide new reel seat in place - line up all pieces. This new one will be stronger than the old and you have not messed with the rear grip or foregrip thereby saving everything but the seat. This is an easy repair and a darn good one - I have done about 15 of these fixes and all have worked completely. Again thanks to Jesse!!

After you have fixed this thing and fished with it you will be "hooked". This simple start is the type of thing that "catches" new builders - welcome to the craft!

Gon Fishn



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2005 10:04PM by Bill Stevens.

Thanks for the instructions, everyone! I think I will be able to fix this with all the good ideas I received. While searching for a way to fix this I have become enamored with the idea of making my own rod. Some of the pictures I have seen on this site and others are very inspiring. I am now cutting the guides off a Berkley rod I broke and am going to try my hand at tying them on a fiberglass blank (actually, my first rod when I was a kid!) With all the information on this site I figure I can at least make a fish-able rod out of it (I hope!) I may have to put the Daiwa handle on the back burner until this gets done! Thanks again to everyone that helped me out with the handle. I really appreciate the advice.

Casey