I just purchased a small caligraphy pen set and some bottles of Testors enamel paint for doing some inscriptions on some graphite rods and a bamboo and was wondering if there was anything I should be aware of with regards to prepping the blank and coating the paint after its dried????

Thanks

I haven't used Testor's for inscriptions but am very sure it would work fine as long as it was completely cured and dry before applying epoxy.

You might try a test on something that won't make you pull hair if it screws up on you.

Maybe put a swing arm lamp down near it and let it help it dry quicker. I'd think 24 hours and you could easily coat it with your favorite 2 part epoxy, but again, I haven't tried this myself.

Putter
Williston, ND

Hi Darren,
Haven't tried that myself either but I recommend applying a coat of color preserver
before applying the finnish just to be sure the finnish won't react with the paint.

Good Luck,

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Testors makes both acrylic and enamel, be sure which one you're using. I like the enamel much better for rodbuilding uses. As Putter & Raymond said it should work if you let it cure and apply a coat of CP. Ralph

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.

Thanks alot guys

Cheers

A hair dryer can also help to dry it. But like Putter said try it first on a scrap piece of blank

I use the gold and silver enamel all the time for blank inscriptions. Use a very fine point on the caligraphy pen, and don't attempt to write the whole inscription with only one dip of the pen. I typically shake the paint real good for a few minutes to get the pigment in solution, then take the cap off, using what is in the cap for my ink well. Slight pressure on the tip will flare the two parts of the pen tip, wicking ink up the point. I typically do about 1/2 a letter per dip. Practice on some paper and other blank material so you get the hang of it. If you mess up, wipe wet paint off with Denatured alcohol and start over. This method works good for students building that first rod because it doesn't dry immediately and you can start over if you mess up.

I wait 24 hrs before coating with epoxy, I typically use LS Supreme. I put plenty of epoxy on the brush and don't brush it real thin over the inscription so I minimize any possible damage to the inscription, which I don't know if it will float it up or not. I've not had any problems with the epoxy disolving the inscription either, just trying to minimize the opportunity I guess by using lots of epoxy and brushing lightly.

I think the inscription looks better the thinner you can make the letters, fat letters seem to get real fat after epoxy, (some magnification??)

Give it a try, the paint is cheap, I pay 88 cents for a small bottle of Testors at the local hobby store, and a caligraphy pen is only a few bucks. One bottle of paint has lasted me for many years.

Good luck,
Tim

I have used both the enamel and the acrylic Tesors paints for inscriptions. I find the acrylic paints to be ideal for doing inscriptions in non-metalic colors. I also use the metalic enamels. Both work well. In either case, nothing more is needed once the paint is dry, just apply the epoxy. Simple, easy, and yeilds good results once you get the hang of using the pen.

Kev

I also have used Testor's paints in the metallic silvers and gold. I have not tried any colors, but have had no problems with the metallics and pretty much do as Tim outlined above. One thing I can add is to put a couple of BBs (beebees) in the paint jar. They help in stirring the paint when you shake the jars. I highly recommend the practice writing on something before writing on the blank. I got an old broken rod piece to practice on. I use lacquer thinner to romove the writing if I am not happy. It will even remove dried printing if you need to. I let it dry overnight before applying epoxy, but in a pinch, I have only let it dry about 4 hours. The metallic paints dry much quicker than the colored paints.

Good luck and practice printing real slow.

Bob Widmaier

Thanks again. I'm going to get the wife to actually do the writing due to both poor penmanship on my part and an art background on my wifes.

Would a rag soaked in water do to wipe it off or will I need something else in case of any mistakes??? I have acetone but it might prove too harmful,not sure??
Cheers

Acetone will not hurt the blank

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

I've used acetone to remove inscriptions; you don't want to soak a blank overnight in it or anything like that, cuz acetone CAN break down the epoxies holding the graphite fibers together if abused.

Lightly wiping with an acetone-dampened paper towel won't hurt it.

Putter
Williston, ND

As always thanks guys.


Tightlines

I would use the alcohol to be on the safe side

Alcohol won't remove oil base paints, though, Bill.

Putter
Williston, ND

Even when it is wet ?? Have not tried it but it should wipe off - when wet
Dry is another thing
I'm also thinking it is going on a coat of hardened clear.
If not --sorry bout that



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2005 09:21AM by bill boettcher.

One last question.Do you guys do your inscriptions right on the blank or over a coat of epoxy??? I'm going to be using LS Supreme (for the first time) on the graphite rod anyway,if that makes any difference.

Cheers

A coat of epoxy is nicer to wright on, makes for a better look it almost floats on the rod. Plus you have some thing under it in case you have to get rid of it