I have tried using perma-gloss for finishing wraps, but so far I have managed to mess up some wraps I was previously pleased with. I used the finish as instructed on the bottel and applied the coats as thin as I could, BUT I'm still getting bubbles. Other than using heat to get the bubbles out is there some thing I can do with the finish to get a clear glass result? I also use the perma-gloss on the blank itself to gloss it up, and have had wounderful results. Is that what the product is meant for or am I just missing some thing with the wraps? I will be greatful for any advise or constuctive criticisms. Thanks for the help.

Permagloss should work well to coat wraps if you apply it in coats that only cover the existing surface but it will take several coats to build up to the point that the wrap is smooth. I seldom use it for this purpose as it may require seven or more coats to accomplish what one coat of epoxy will do. I do use it for my base coat as it penetrates the wrap well and secures the wraps to prevent further guide movement. By just allowing the base coat to soak into the wrap without attempting to apply enough for a noticeable build up I have no bubble problem and feel that I have eliminated a possible bubble source that could be a problem when I apply epoxy.
I'm puzzled by your problem with bubbles as I haven't experienced one using it.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

MAybe th ebubbles are formed by whatever you are using to apply teh epoxy? A paintbrush might cause this, if you are using a brush, make sure you wick it off after each guide.

Paul,

On my experience, you can get bubbles in Permagloss when you try to apply too much of it with one coat. Just try to apply less...

Pavel,
Moscow, RU

Billy and Pavel may have the solution for you. I apply permagloss with a large sewing needle
and just let it flow into place.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2005 01:40PM by Stan Grace.

Thanx, Stan
Will try it. Although, now I've already solved the problem for myself. Just not trying to put as much PG at once as I usually do with epoxy. I found that it's what was the reason...

Pavel,
Moscow, RU

Pavel, whatever you do, don't put the torch to Permagloss; it's flammable (believe me, I had the WHOOOOOAAAAAAAAAAA happen to me; the "Big Eyes" phenomenen). LOL

Putter
Williston, ND

Sure, Randy. I never even thought about it because I've red all the cautions on the bottle before using it at very first time :)

Pavel,
Moscow, RU

Thanks again for the info. Stan, I tried the big needle trick. You da man. Putter, I to found out the hard way not to "TORCH" PG. I burned a fly rod in half before getting the flam out.

Perma-Gloss is my finish of choice. I have been using it on most of my rods for th last 5 plus years. It is tougher and more flexible than any epoxy. It is crystal clear and never yellows. The first rods I used it on look like the were done yesterday. The only draw backs I can think of are the smell and the clarity. Because the finish is so clear the thread under the finish will fade if exposed to a lot of uv. I put the first coat on my wraps so heavy that I have to keep the rod rotating fairly rapidly to keep it from dripping off. This coat is allowed to dry for at least 24 hours. The next coats are thin coats and I allow them to dry for at least 6 hours. The only time I have gotten bubbles is when I have tried to recoat to soon, before the solvent has had a chance to evaporate. I use a soft brush a usually apply 3-4 coats. I think the key to a good wrap is the first heavy coat.

Jim just made a great point. Along with the thin coats you need to be sure evaporation is complete. Apply too quickly and the underlying layer may expell gasses into the fast setting top coat. I have found that this is where alot of bubbles come from when using Permagloss.

As thin as Permagloss is I would think it is near impossible to get bubbles because or your application tool.

Jay