I finished a 50# stand-up rod, when I mounted the reel and the unibutt, and lay it on the floor, I noticed a misalignment of the guides of about 3 degrees to the left from the centerline of the reel and the unibutt, looking at the assembly from the top. The guides are straight, its an obvious error when I installed the ferrule (I used PC7). This will not happen again, since I decided to leave the ferrule installation and alignment process for the end, with everything else mounted, including the reel.
But now, what are my options to fix this blooper?
Thanks to all !

Cut the ferrule off with a spiral cut and install a new one. Or, remove all the guides and rewrap them. You may find that the cost of a new uni-butt ferrule pales next to the work of having to remove and rewrap all the guides.

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I did this once- sort of. I mounted a rod and it ended up coming out of the ferrule crooked- which was not noticeable until I mounted the ferrule back on the butt... I was pretty upset. I cut the blank off right above the ferrule, reamed the old chunk of blank out of the ferrule, and re-installed it. Lost 3" of length, but it cost nothing but time. It's easy to ream the old blank out with a dremel tool.

Tom,
Are you recommending a spiral cut so I can pull out (i.e. unglue from the blank) the 'epoxied' ferrule and then sand away the excess epoxy on the blank end, re-prepare the surface for a new ferrule and install it, nothing but the old ferrule lost. Is this correct? The hard part will be pulling the cut ferrule apart from the blank, right ?

Mike,
I like your recommendation too, its definitely easier in terms of effort to what Tom is suggesting, but I need to verify with the customer if he can handle the ending 6'6'' stand-up rod, I am pretty sure he could, but the matter is if he wants it shorter than ordered.

Thanks for the feedback !!!

Once you pop the ferrule off you needn't remove the epoxy left on the blank. Just scuff it and glue on a new ferrule. You can epoxy directly onto the bushing of PC7, but use liquid type epoxy on that go around - you won't have enough clearance to use PC7 in there this time.

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Got it Tom ! I am going to try this first. Thank you again.

Tom, Mike and all who read this post.

Cutting the ferrule with the dremmel tool was simpler that I thought.

I cut the bottom alignment piece of the ferrule with a hack saw
Then I used a dremmel cutting disc and started cutting up the ferrule in a spiral form, and was careful to cut only the aluminum on the ferrule without damaging the blank, and careful when I got close to the bottom end of the foregrip, so I did not cut it. The anodized nut ring was also cut with the dremmel tool.
Then I started prying out with pliers the glued cut piece of the ferrule and pulling it from the blank with pliers, this was a little tough but worked out well, the ferule was completely removed.
Then I sanded (turned on the lathe) the blank section with the old epoxy, just enough for the new ferrule to slip onto it easily, cleaned the new ferrule and glued it with rodbond to the blank end and made the final alignment and set for curing.

Thanks again to all contributors in this forum.