Our goal is to cast lures in the 1/16 to about 1/4 oz for trout in large waters using spin reels. Distance is paramount as is the ability to protect 2 lb test when fighting larger fish.

Finally got to test the Dan Craft FT 3 wt, 8' 6" today. Though matched with a poor UL reel, it does cast noticeably further than any other rods we've tried including a mid level import IM7 9' salmon rod. Very rewarding. We were casting 1/4 oz Kastmasters. The distance was good and will increase significantly with a better reel. We chose 3 wt because we needed the tip to protect 2 lb test lines, AND load enough for lighter lures. We do typically cast with 4 lb test but want to occasionally dip down to 2 lb.

Also, we used Amtek Titan fly guides size 5 at 0.12 grams each secured with with electrical tape. (two loops) Short of using recoils (.07 grams), doubt that we can get much ligher in guides.

Unfortunately, the tip of the FT3 was definitely a bit 'whippy'' where at the end of the casting movement, the tip oscillated a bit more than desired. When a rod is 'whippy', it feels like that at the end of my casting motion, the tip hasn't caught up with me and is still lagging somewhere behind me. This robs the casting distance where I'd want to have the tip accelerate to max speed right around when my casting motion ends. (Let me know if this doesn't make sense or is erroneous.))

My guess is that I need a 4 wt or maybe even 5 wt with a stiffer tip. A bit less 'flippy' or 'whippy'. However, I'm not sure if a 4 or 5 wt will protect a 2 lb test line or load a 1/16th lure.. Incidentally, the FT 3 wt is still less whippy than any other rods I have of the same power so this is not a complaint against the FT. I may simply be asking too much of a 3 weight.


So, here are my questions for your pros - would appreciate any actual experience, or informed conjectures:

With this type of application what would do better?? A faster recovery but slower action (Sig V) or faster action but slower recovery (FT)?

Basically, at the end of my cast, which will give me higher lure speed (again 1/16th to 1/4 oz)? I'm assuming it would be the one where the tip would recover most quickly to match my casting speed. It seems that the series V with a slower action and faster recovery may load a bit better with light lures. BUT with these rods being 8-9 ft long, that's a LOT of bend in the rod with medium fast- would it not get even more 'whippy'? Also, a slower action is less sensitive when it comes to detecting strikes.

On the other hand, the FT supposedly recovers a bit more slowly than the series V so I'm assuming the tip will lag behind more.

I had planned on building another identical rod using the Sig V 3 wt, 8' 4" to test but today's experience suggest that perhaps I need a higher weight. rating blank. Was also going to build using recoil versus Titans. However, actually testing all these permutations will quickly become expensive and time consuming unless I can narrow down the 'candidates'.

Of course, in the ideal world, Dan would make a blank with FT taper and Sig V speed of recovery. However, spin or casting rods are not Dan's target audience so we'll make do.

Thanks in advance for any educated guesses on this to help me narrow down the field for testing. Would really love to hear your thoughts.

Thanks!
Mo

You are trying to make a spinning rod out of a fly rod... that might be the wrong approach.

When trying to achieve maximum casting distance on a spinning rod, it's not how long it is that matters, or even how hard you can throw the lure... distance casting is about getting the optimum acceleration for your preferred bait.

I would consider something like a Rainshadow IP841... it's a moderate-fast popping rod, designed for casting light lures long distances, including live bait... and in the case of live bait, it promotes long casts without throwing soft live bait off the hook (and it works even better for lures)... in your case, this may translate into better line protection.

More about line protection... not only can a more moderate action rod protect your line, but the reel drag, the hook, and even the type of line can work in concert here.

The rod, because it is moderate-fast instead of fast or ridiculously extra fast like some of the popular bass rods today, will load slower and give you added shock resistance. Even if the fly rod is light, that longer length will counter the light power and be self-defeating... the longer rod can move more line faster which can put more effective power and stress on the line. If you want to be a cowboy and drive (cast) with one hand, get a fast rod and be in style. If you want to make it happen, think outside the trendy box of pet rocks and fast action rods.

If you like mono, a line with better shock resistance may be the hot ticket... try P-line Floroclear.. I think this line may also be available in odd sizes, such as 3 and 5 lb.

Even hooks can help you protect the line.... by going with small, high tensile strength, small barb hooks, you may be able to turn the drag down a notch, improving line protection even more. If you don't mind loosing one now and again when they jump, you could even smash the barbs down on your hooks for easier hook sets that require an even lower drag setting.

The only potential problem I see with the rod I mentioned is that, with a hard, two-handed cast, it might accelerate the lure too much, and could break the light line on the cast... in that case, you could use a long shock leader of heavier line (6 - 8lb., perhaps?), long enough to wind around the reel spool a few turns... that way, the initial casting pressure is on the heavier shock leader, not the light stuff. The devil is in the details.

Regardless of the intended use the blank was designed for I think Mo is on the right track in seeking a blank that performs as desired. I wish I knew how to readily identify blank characteristics that give the desired results with given lure weights. Part of the answer could be resolved by the Common Cents measurents of rods that perform as desired but it seems that very few spin or baitcasting rods are tested or listed. Personally I would like to be able to see the AA comparison of a number of blanks when choosing a blank to build for spin fishing. I think the reason many of us look at fly blanks to build as spinning rods is that we can find such objective information listed for these blanks.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

Mo,

I'd definitely use 4 wt. fly blank if I want to cast 1/4 oz lures and lighter. Myself, I have a very little exrperience with using fly blanks for building spinning rods, but it tells me :) that the rule 1wt=1/16oz is pretty correct...

Pavel,
Moscow, RU

Thanks to all who responded. Please do keep sharing your thoughts.

Gary, thanks for your lengthy post. Already been doing your suggestions except for the higher lb shock leader as we want lighter leaders. (good drags, braided lines, small 'sticky sharp' hooks etc.) Using fly blanks because they are higher quality (lighter for the power) and lighter power. That and DC's service and value in his blanks.

My thoughts is that the blanks, built up, doesn't really know whether it was originally specified as a fly blank or not AS LONG as the action is correct for what we want to do. And with DC's blanks, I have fast to moderate actions to choose from. Seems like it should work.

Stan and Pavel, thanks for your thoughts too. I'm sure others have tried what I'm going for and hope that more will read this thread and respond.

Thanks!
Mo