I am getting ready to build a stand-up rod (30-50#) for a friend. I have built several bass rods and one 20# class rod.
Here are my ideas...please let me know where I am messing up and what I need to change.

1. I would like to underwrap each guide with metallic thread, is this ok? I figure that way I can put a small trim band under center of guide and then wrap the guide to the rod with black A thread. The metallic is A size also.

2. Do I need to overwrap twice,meaning three total wraps? Two over the guide?

3. I assume I have to coat each wrap layer? I use flexcoat.

4. Oh, I will be using rod bond for the seat, butt and gimbal? This is what I have used for the lighter rods.

5. Should I use ferrule cement (tip glue) for the tip or should it get epoxied...my choice would be epoxy, but once again I may be way off?

Can't think of any other problems...until I actually start and then I will be panicking and begging for help!

Thank you all in advance,

Chris

On most all of my off shore rods I underwrap with metallic size A and double wrap the guide feet, usually with size D, The double wrap is to keep the metallic from showing as well as added strength. Jesse

Hi Chris - If by stand up rod you mean a rod designed to catch larger fish from a stand up position rather than a chair, I would suggest the following. Please understand that there is more than one way to skin a cat or in this case catch fish. These Ideas come straight out of long range fishing done on the west coast.

#1 No problem using size A metallic for the underwrap but if you are going to use size A regular for the overwraps you may find that A Metallic is slightly larger that Regular A. Color presever(If you use it) or a light coat of finish over the metallic A , then it will be a bit easier to put the A over wrap. If you use finish either let it dry hard or back off the pressure of the first over wrap.

#2 You dont have to do a double overwrap or even an underwrap for that matter. I do it on almost all the salt water gear you are talking about just so I can have fun with more colors and most fishermen think double overwraps give more strength. Sometimes it is ok for the customer to think he is right. Since in this case your arent concerned with SENSITIVITY you can put as many wraps on it you want. When a marlin or tuna hit you pretty much know it.

#3 Again you dont have to do anything. In this case maybe between UW and first over it will probably make things easier. I usually do A reg. underwrap, A reg first over, and D reg or C NCP for the second over. If all the thread sizes are the same size you can often get by without putting finish on until the end but I have found putting CP on will often keep the thread from shifting under another layer.

#4 Sorry I dont know much about Rod Bond personally. I use Epoxy, but some people I trully trust tell me Rod Bond Works just fine.

#5 I personally NEVER use Epoxy on the tips. I use the regular heat sensitive Rod tip glue. On rare occasion one may become loose but I find that to be very rare and usually because I didnt drip enough into the barrel of the tip. Usually reheating cures any problem. If a tip gets damaged and it is epoxied then you have to cut the blank and shorten the rod, which isnt my first choice.

Remember all this infor is just in MHO. I am sure not all who read my suggestions will agree but these things work for me. If you have any other probs you think I might be of some help, please feel free to call or email me.

Good Luck

I am no expert but I am in the middle of building a stack of Seeker/Calstar rods. Just finished a 40-80lb Seeker with @#$%& spiral roller guides. Laying out a Calstar 765XL for underwrap right now.

I underwrapped with gold electra metallic A thread, applied a light coat of FC to provide a level surface for the next wrap. I overwrapped with black A thread and it completely covered the gold underwrap with a single pass and no CP. I left the first 4-5 wraps of gold show on the ends so it looks like a trim wrap, the inlaid a couple bands on the foot and under the center of the guide.

I think putting a light coat of finish on the underwraps and on each subsequent layer of thread helps keep the bubble problem down.

I epoxy the tips because I have had the hot-melt let go. I have had good success removing tip-tops ythat have been epoxied using torque and heat (saltwater sticks.....not steelhead wands).

I also use rodbond and a combination of masking tape and drywall fiberglass tape to build up the reelseat with no problems.

Go with what ya got and you will be fine, IMHO.

1. If its a solid glass blank I sometimes do not underwrap, any other blank thats not "cheap" throw an underwrap under, for protection and for the looks. I dont see buying an expensive blank and then placing a piece of metal directly on it.

2. All heavy stuff I wrap takes two overwraps, mainly for protection.

3. I apply finish only AFTER all thread is on. But thats personal preference. You can do it either way.

4. Rod Bond is good stuff.

5. I would not use any sort of hot melt glue here. First of all if using a roller top why would you have to remove it later? Repair parts are avail for most roller tops. Secondly, if the rod is stored in a hot area the hot melt will soften and the top will turn off center, all it takes is one time. This happened on me more times than I care to remember (had a rash of rods come back to me for "repair" when hot melt softened) before I stopped using the stuff. If a top ever needs to come off you can always EASILY remove it by grinding or cutting the tube and removeing it. My goal when I put together a heavy offshore rod is to make it as tough as possible - hold melt does not fit the bill here. At least on rods I build it doesn't.

Lou

Well...thank you ALL very very much. This is the first time in years (since my first attempt at a rod) that I have posted a question and I am overwhelmed at how helpful this bulletin board is. Now I have the confidence in what I will be trying to do is the correct way to go about it.

Thanks again everyone,
Chris

ps Doc I may have to take you up on that email or call

Permagloss on the underwrape will give you a nice hard surface to wrap over