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Flocking, Epoxy, reaming, and spatulas
Posted by: Phil Richmond (---.200-68.tampabay.res.rr.com)
Date: June 13, 2005 10:16PM

Ok, been saving up my questions, now have 4 that I have received my Donjer flocking stuff.

I read Tom's article in the library. First question: Am I correct in understanding you can't flock with the handle turning in a rod dryer because it will look like crap because of the different angles?

Do I ream my grips before flock or after flock, does it matter?

I have to put a St Croix UL handle together. It has the cork insert and skeleton parts. Can I use 5 min epoxy to make sure I get the parts set straight and they don't move in the time it takes rod bond to set or is it rod bond all the way? Either way I would use rod bond to the blank.

Tried the McDonalds coffee stirrers as spatulas yesterday, worked like a champ. Do you lay it flat and use the surface tension to pull out the epoxy or use the edge? If I lay it flat, when I take it off, it kind of pops off from sticking.

Ok: Five questions. How the heck do I use this mini flocker thing? I've read the instructions.... you pump it over and over again in short pumps, or is it long steady pumps? I don't think long slow pumps create enough air to push the flock. (You can tell I'm not mechanically inclined).

Thanks,
Phil



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/13/2005 10:17PM by Phil Richmond.

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Re: Flocking, Epoxy, reaming, and spatulas
Posted by: Anonymous User (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: June 13, 2005 10:28PM

Take the flocking stuff outside. Use a plastic garbage can or cardboard box to make you a container that you can catch all the excess. This is not something that you can use in your shop with the rod turner working unless you have a complete vacuum system with recovery. Line the container or box with plastic sheeting or a 13 gallon garbage can liner bag. The piece will be stationary while your are applying flock - hand turn to expose untreated area. Keep the canister at a constant 90 degree angle to the target. Ream first. Do not handle flocked piece for at least 12 hours. Apply what you feel will be too much flock - you can not apply too much - catch the excess. Be sure to apply cork seal first. Apply heavy constant coat of adhesive with foam painters pad on a stick. Full strokes on the canister. Practice first by spraying into a container and reuse excess. Be sure all steps are well planned ahead of time. This is something real nice if done correctly but can make a real mess if not well thought out. Hopefully you have carefully read the article in Rodmaker.

I have done quite a few and if you want some help is getting set up send me an email.

Gon Fishn

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Re: Flocking, Epoxy, reaming, and spatulas
Posted by: Anonymous User (Moderator)
Date: June 13, 2005 10:31PM

I can't really add anything to what Bill has told you. I think once you load your mini-flocker and give it a few shots, you'll quickly get the hang of it. Having the grip rotating mechanically may be a big help to you. Just keep your flocker at a dead-on 90 degress and your angle of "attack" will be fine.

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Re: Flocking, Epoxy, reaming, and spatulas
Posted by: Phil Richmond (---.200-68.tampabay.res.rr.com)
Date: June 13, 2005 10:37PM

Thanks guys! Will post results. Already sealed with Acrylic color preserver earlier today.

Anyone care to shoot at the 5 min epoxy for skeleton reel seat and spatula questions? That's the problem with getting greedy and asking too much at once. Hard to get answers for them all at one shot.

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Re: Flocking, Epoxy, reaming, and spatulas
Posted by: William Cunningham (---.client.mchsi.com)
Date: June 13, 2005 10:49PM

I use the same spatulas and I use surface tension instead of touching the thread. Then I wait a few minutes before leveling. I'm new though so take it with a grain of salt.

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Re: Flocking, Epoxy, reaming, and spatulas
Posted by: Anonymous User (Moderator)
Date: June 13, 2005 10:51PM

On the seat, 5 minute epoxy is fine. But, you need to mark everything for alignment and work quickly. 5 minute epoxy is plenty strong enough here, but the danger in using it would be that you don't get something aligned and find the epoxy is already too far set to move a piece just a tad. You don't want to mix it with the RodBond, if that's what you're asking.

In the end, if you decide to use the 5 minute stuff, just prepare beforehand, do a quick walk-through once, and then mix up the epoxy and move surely and quickly.

If you use the RodBond all the way, you'll have plenty of time to get all the pieces aligned and set aside where nothing is going to bother them. I'd recommend coming back an hour or so later and just checking to make sure nothing has moved. Even an hour down the road, you can make small adjustments to the RodBond. And, if it's fine an hour later, chances are it's going to be fine.



............

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