Been wanting to try using a spatula for applying epoxy for a while. Ran across some real cheap ones at Wally’s World last week (3 for $0.99) that would be just about right for a test run. Had time tonight to do the butt section of my new fly rod (the one without the winding check). This was also a test run for my new workshop.

Got everything set up and in the proper place. Mixed my Flex Coat. Tried to remember all of the great advice I had seen here regarding the proper method of applying epoxy with a spatula. Then there was nothing else to do. I just jumped in, feet first.

Finished up. Looked at that butt section and all I could say was, “My oh my oh my. Now that is pretty.”

that good huh....???

I've been threating to try that as well. Did you bend the spatula any, or do any other special little tricks....???
pb

I'm a convert also, not 100% , still use a brush in certain places. But mixing slowly , and use of spatula , I find less air bubbles

Dave von Doehren
PRRODS......If man built it , man can fix it.and if man built it man can break it !

Thought I would chime in, I found some great spatulas the other day. Mcdonalds coffee stirrers. They are perfect, and free.

Spatulas are great for the same reason that a well loaded brush is. As long as you are pouring finish on with a spatula or letting the rod pull finish onto it from a brush, rather than trying to actually use the tool to force the finish to go where you want it, the results are much nicer. Trying to "paint" on an epoxy finish the way you would a varnish generally doesn't work to well IMO.

i get a constant supply of free spatulas in the mail. i use the fake plastic credit cards the card companies send out in there solicitation mail. i cut them to the shape and size i want.

From the moment Joe Kassuba walked me through his process of aplying finish to a gude wrap I felt like a hue burden was removed from the entire rod building endeavor. The spatulas he makes and sell have not only a flat spade end for depositiing the epoxy to the wrap and pressing it between the threads to saturate the tunnels alongside the guide feet, but the pother end has an arrowhead point. This is used to transport and draw a narrow bead of finish along the outer edge of the wrap where it meets the blank. This is, to me the really surprising benefit of his spatulas. Never again will I have to worry about how my edges will look. This is the first step in finishing the guide. Just load the point with enough finish to have contro of it..and hold it agains the edge of the wrap. Slowly turn the blank as the epoxy is making a straight line around the blank. The edge holds the tip in place..and if you run out of epoxy you just load more and pick up where you left off. This is as reliable as it gets!

I made one change to the spatula which has made it much nmore comfortable and provides even greater control. I slipped a length of the smallest surgical tubing over the spatula (it will fit over the pointed end with just a little stretching) anmd then trimmed th elength to just fit the thin round shaft between the two heads. The tubing expands the diameter for better leverage and control as well as making a very comfortable cushion with the tackiness that keeps your fingers from slipping.

The $11.00 loks big compared to a few stirrere, but I actually get as much enjoyment form using good tools as I do from using good fishing rods; which are nothing more than other good tools. In the3 long run, when I have build my last rod and finished my last wrap, if I divide the number of times I have used that spatula into $11.00 I hope (for the sake of enjoying many years in the craft) the result will show that it cost me less than a penny per use. But again. I will want it to be passed on to another rid builder who appreciates a fine tool crafted to perform a specific task. I thank Joe Kassuba every time I pick the spatula up.

Dave.

I found a place here in town where I can get nice metal spatulas at 2 for $7.00. I'll be glad to pick up some for any of you guys. Cost plus actual shipping. (usually $2)

Blades have rounded corners and the other end has a sharpe point. I have photos if anyone wants them

I use a tongue depressor like the doctor uses to look down your throat. You can buy 500 of them for less than $10.00.You can brake them , design them,split them to make your own tool . When your through throw them away. I also use them for mixing the flat surface and and slow stir encourage less bubbles.

In my opinion the best bubble breaker is acatone . It makes the flex coat a lighter mix bubbles just disappear.In abt 20 minutes the acetone evaporates and your left with the same consistancy flex coat as you started with. In my limited experience it does nothing to the finish. Formula I use is 6 drops to 6 cc of of mixed flex coat.I have even used more acetone to the mix and made it almost runny and nothing happened. Using 2 light coats encourages the bubles to release and gives you an opportunity to inspect the first wrap for thread nubs ect.When satisified do the next coat and just cover the threads.

Plastic palette knifes at Michael's. Because it bends, will follow the contour of the wrap when pressing the undercoat into the wrap.

Dave when you described the process for applying the epoxy to the outside of the wrap you said:
"This is used to transport and draw a narrow bead of finish along the outer edge of the wrap where it meets the blank."

Do you position the spatula on the thread side of the wrap on the bare balnk side of the wrap to do this?

Joe <*}(({{>>{

I've never used a spatula to apply epoxy and would like to try. Could someone explain or recommend a book/video that explains.

Joe,
Just draw edge of the arrowhead along the blank with it's side pressed gently on the end of the wrap. The psatula is sitting on the blank as its side is rubbing against the wrap. this keeps the spatula in line to make a perfect circle around the blank.
Dave

Are you letting the finish set up a bit for a thicker viscosity, or no. Seems to me that it would drip off if not.pb

Pete,
The amount of epoxy that the pointed end holds is minimal. By holding th espqtula on top of the rod and turning the at the same time the material is rod very smoothly making a narrow band sealing the end of the wrap without any running or dripping. The best thing to do is to try it and you'll be pleasantly surprisd how well this works. Turning with a motor at slow speed is helpful but you can turn by hand as well.

I can't help but see the irony here in me giving instruction on applying finish. It was only four months ago when I learned this techniqhue form Jope Kassuba at the National Rod Builder's Show. Prior to then I was scared out of my mind when it came time to apply finish. That should tell you two things. First, tht this prcedure is easy and consistent. Second, that the the Natiuonal Rod Builder's Show is a wonderful place to improve one's skills.

Hope top see many of you there next year, Lord willling.

Dave

Thanks Dave......I'm just now working on my 3rd rod.......so I can relate to the "scared" part. I will practice on a old blank first.

Yep....I was at the show also.....Sat. morn.....I had to leave at lunch time ....so I only saw a portion of one seminar. Hopefully I can stay longer next time. I needed to stay much longer than I did.....wish I had bought a lot more than I did too.
pb