Found out that size 6 Recoil spin guides and size 1 Recoil are bout 0.05 grams. This means 560 of them will make one ounce!

That said, it dawned on me that my wraps and finish may well weigh more than the guides themselves.

SO....for ultralight set up using no more than 4 lb test leaders, what's the best way to go get the lightest weight wrap and finish? I was planning on using size A thread and U-40 Permagloss. Should I reconsider and use thinner threads which will soak up less finish? Suggestions?

Thanks,
Mo

ps: Yes, this may be going a bit 'overboard' in search of lightness but I'm not even close to what Don has done with his various 1 oz rods...:)

Mo, the last few dozen rods I've built I have used size A thread (as always) and 2-3 coats of Gudebrod 822 rod varnish instead of epoxy. This protects well but leaves some texture to the thread like rods from the 1970s and earlier. The same number of Permagloss coats will give similar results and be tougher. If I had a way of dealing with the fumes from Permagloss I would probably use it instead. Another advantage to the Gudebrod 822 is that if you decide to strip and rewrap a rod, you can get the blank clean again much easier than with epoxy or Permagloss. This is an important consideration for me because I build lots of prototypes, testing out different things and stripping a rod is pretty common practice for me.

I'm sure Don Davis will chime in about his silk thread and Klass Kote methods. It sounds very light, low build, and attractive. Do a search for Don's name and Klass Kote and you will find his feedback on this subject.

How about filing down the guide feet to the bare minimum, using a single coat of CP, then one coat of flexcoat lite? How heavy could that be?

Just a thought?

How bout minwax spar urethane ???
Even an auto 2 part polyurethane



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2005 04:38PM by bill boettcher.

Mo. I actually weighed a stripper wrap and finish recently. It was .09 grams, so you were correct about the weight of the wrap. I prefer 00 silk, which is a bit smaller than the A nylon, which is about a 0. Currently, one coat of 840, followed by a thickened coat of Klass Kote. As this just barely covers the texture of the thread, I don't think you can go with much less. Steve's two coats of 822 sounds good, if you don't want to fool with the K-K. I am currently trying to figure out a way to build a salt water stick at 1.5 oz. I have a 1 oz. freshwater that handles a 5 weight (Dan Craft). I had to rebuild my micro combo after a trout bent the aluminum extension. It is now 4' 8" and sports a Forbes micro. 1.1 oz total. This sounds a little nuts, but I find that you get a much better feel for the equipment when you can keep the combo under 4 oz. I tested a 3.3 oz. Ross Colorado on a light rod the other day and it just killed it, even though the balance was pretty good.

Don,

Not sure if you or Steve are still following this thread. However, can you comment on the durability of silk over the long run (years) as it is an organic material? My understanding is that it is quite a bit more difficult to wrap, requiring a deft touch.

Steve,

I've read quite a few reference about the Permagloss' fumes. How bad is it really? I just assumed that I could use it near an open window and be done with it. Not true? Super toxic? Have young kids around so this matters.

Thanks,
Mo

I use it a lot and the fumes are not really that bad. I like it on painted reel seats and wood inserts for it's hardness. Plus it is thin