does the use of color preservers help control bubble problems?

Hello Brad
No color preserver will not help. The causes of bubbles in epoxy finish are from the mixing and application technique.
The best way to get rid of bubbles is to not make them.
Try mixing the epoxy using a slower motion. Use a blade shape to mix rather than a round cylinder shape. When the epoxy is mixed, pour it out of the mixing cup onto flat surface and let it spread. Wait for a time to let any bubbles come to the surface and burst. If there are bubbles in it try blowing on it using a straw. This will help the bubbles to burst. Apply the expoxy using a spatula or use your brush as a spatula. Load epoxy onto the applicator and let the epoxy roll off onto the rod. Apply the epoxy thinner rather than thicker until a technique is developed that minimizes bubbles or does not result in any.
There are some good articles in the library about mixing and applying epoxy. In a past issue of Rodmaker there is an aricle showing how to make and use a motor driven mixer.
Trondak LS Supreme and LS Supreme High build both dissipate bubbles well. LS Supreme High Build is a very easy epoxy to use and can be used for a thin or thicker single epoxy finish.
Have a bless Memorial Day
Sincerely Joe Kassuba


His Rod Shop
Joe Kassuba

I am just an humble user of Mr. Joe's products and will dissagree with him somewhat on his position on this thread. The original question was - "will CP aid in bubble reduction". The post did not go into much detail about the type of problem. The use of CP will, under certain circumstances, will aid in "bubble" reduction. If you apply finish improperly you will get a "volcano" or bubbles from the trapped air from the tunnel. This unwanted bubble or bubbles can appear after you thought you were done and had left the drying area. If you use the CP you will displace this air with the CP and it will no longer be there when you apply the finish. I think the "bubbles" in finish are smaller and easier to deal with with proper technique than the ones caused by poor thread work and application techniques that will not let air escape. You certainly do not need to use CP to get a totally clear finish with no bubbles.

Joe - please tell the "Legend" I fixed three broken rods yesterday using his procedures from the Library. I printed the article and gave it to the customer to validate that repair can be done successfully. I have a customer that insists on putting Jack Cravaille in the boat free style with med/lite popping rods. I got tired of replacing blanks and am going to see if he gets the message by repairing only!

Gon Fishn

THANKS FOR THE REPLY JOE.
THE REASON FOR MY QUESTIN IS ARE THERE AIR POCKETS IN THE THREADS? WOULD THE COLOR PRESERVER SEAL OUT THESE POCKETS?

Hello Brad and Bill
Your right Bill- Epoxy coating over a tunnel caused by poor guide foot preparation and sizing will "errupt" air out of the "tunnel".
Regarding air in threads-There is very very little. Wrapping thread is made of many many strands of nylon woven togeather to make a thread. These nylon strands are not penetrated by epoxy or color lock. What the color lock does is coat the OUTSIDE strands so that epoxy cannot coat all the individual strands through out the thread. Epoxy finish then covers the color lock and cannot coat the many many individual strands of the thread and thereby make it look wet and darker by about three shades.
So air in the thread is a very small small contributor of "air". The "tunnel" formed by the thread over the guide foot is filled with air. And this air needs to get out if you have coated the thread with color lock. Color lock will not effectively fill the tunnel. If no color lock is used the "wetting" action will fill this tunnel with epoxy. Proper sized and shaped guide feet will eliminate most of the "tunnel". If color lock is used and a "tunnel" needs filling do it with a small pointed spatula; a tooth pick should work though I have not tried one.
Most all commercal finished rod manufactures do not use color lock and use a two coat process. The first coat is applied so that the wraps are saturated and the "tunnel" is filled. The final coat is put on to achieve the desired finish look.
I suggest practicing on a few guides with and without color lock to understand the differences and discover your technique. Another thing that can cause problems is finishing at to cool a temperature. Put epoxy on at or above 70 deg F.
It is fun to discover your own technique for applying wrap finish. Most all of us arrive at the same technique if we use the same applicator.
Bill I will be talking to Ralph soon and will let him know about your repair experience. He will enjoy your comments.
Blessings to you both.
Joe

His Rod Shop
Joe Kassuba

If you want your thread to stay the color it came from the spool, use color perserver to hold the color. It is thin and penitrates the thread to replace the air, and if the coat of finish is applied correctly no bubbles.
With out color preserver the first coat of clear, will penitrate the threads and get rid of the air.
But the thread will become darker and transparent, then a secount coat is applied.
You may be causing the bubbles your self. maybe from mixing?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/31/2005 01:30AM by bill boettcher.