Without going into guide placement in relation to the spine, what is the best method of finding proper guide placement? (Blank manufacturers suggested spacing, Static guide placement, graph/charts, trial and error)? I've tried the static method, but the guides are far from where the manufacturer suggests (+/- 1.5 -2 inches), or from where they are on the same factory rod. I've never seen or tried the graph (as mud-hole sells), and I'm just not sure if I should stick with the suggested guide placement.

Is there a point where the guide placement in relation to proper loading under stress has an adverse effect on casting (line moving through the guides) qualities? Does it work the other way around, or do they work in proportion to the other?

Sorry if this is trivial, I just can't find what I'm really looking for using the search option. Thanks in advance.

Denis, IMHO the Static Guide placement answers all your concerns. I think too many get caught up in charts, mathematical equations, and manufactures suggested placement.

If it is true that all blanks, even among those with the same specs, have different flex characteristics, then how could any, but the Static Guide Placement have merit when it comes to the correct number of guides and placement required for the correct load distribution of any particular blank.

Besides, as custom rod builders, why are so many concerned with the manufactures suggested placement of guides, instead of the flex characteristics of the blank in question? If properly used, you can just eyeball the placement of guides on the blank prior to performing the Static Guide Placement and still come up with the correct number and placement of guides for any blank.

It works.

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

Hi Denis,

I was about to post a similar questeion when i saw yours there. If you ask 10 guys about guide placement you will get 10 different answers. My point on guide placement is that it will definately change depending on the action of the blank. Slow, Medium, Fast, Xtra Fast. (I build fly rods BTW) For instance an XFast Blank will have 75% of its action in the top 1/3rd of the rod compared to a soft action that will bend progresively from the butt section too the tip. On all the suggestions i have seen people make on guide spacing they only refer to length and sections but they also state only use this as a guide and then move them around from there. Taping on guides and testing then moving them around is pain in the butt.

Now the chart that Mudhole sells is going to have to be the next step for me because this chart makes bending sence as it will give you the optimal guide placement for the action of your blank. My only suggestion would be to tape up the feruls before cranking the rod over.

If you get yours before me then post on what you found it to be like and if it provided confidence on the proper guide placement..


Thanks and regards


Rob Hardaway

Hi Doug,

We must have been punching away on the key board at the same time. You say the attic guide test will privide the optimal results. Can you elaborate a little on exactly what one would be looking for when placing the guides. They say you should have no sharp angles and the line should never touch the blank throughout the loading process from light loading to maximum bend. Is there anything else we should be watching for?

Cheers

Rob Hardaway

I found several really great articles on guide placement and especially determining the correct number of guides in old Rodmaker back issues. I use the static method and couple that with the spacing tips found in the article.

Also the library page on this site has a great article on static guide placement as well.

Rob, always use the smallest and lightest guides, especially on the tip, you can, that still meet the requirements for a particular setup.

Also, I have found the Static Guide Placement in most all cases will require more guides than any manufacture suggested placement or chart.

With that said, you can eleveate most all these concerns by spiral (bumper) wrapping.

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

Since no two blanks flex the same, I would like said start with a factory placement maybe St Croixs, then do the static placement for final adjustment. To me it is the easiest way.
Then test cast, and test cast, and test cast

Not to sound like a wise guy, but you can test cast your rod with the guides taped on. Cast with guides postitioned by manufacturer's spacing, then move guides by static placement method and cast again - see if one performs better than the other.

Bill, I use to worry about manufacturer's suggested spacing, but have never found them to distribute the load without flat spots or the line contacting the blank during the stress test. (Conventionaly wrapped bait casters)

If you use the smallest/lightest guides you can get away with, I have never found a manufacturer's setup to be any better than a rod setup using the Static Guide Placement.


Regards......Doug@
TCRds

I don't use a chart any more. I just start the first guide from the tip top on UL and Light stuff about 4" heaver stuff 5" Then figure one or two more then the blank length and add a little as I go down the blank after setting up the butt guide. Static test and adjust as needed I also use a fly line makes it a little easyer to see