Sorry about this basic question. Did some search and read some posts on finish but still a bit unclear.

I wanted to use Klass Kote but after a call to the company, realized that the smallest opening order would run over $30 for the smallest kit which is still huge by rod finishing standards. A bit overkill for starting off as I'm not finishing dozens of rods right now. The reason I was interested in Klass Kote is that it supposedly goes on VERY THIN and thus, lightweight.

Any alternatives that are similar if not identical which will allow very thin/light coats and also durable?

Thanks again for all your help.
Mo

U 40 Permagloss.

Putter
Williston, ND

Permagloss would be even more durable you can buy it in one-ounce bottles. Only downside is the much faster setting time. But, once you learn a good technique for application, you may find it to be less muss and fuss than the Klass Kote.

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Both Permagloss and spar varnish have the same thinness as Klass Kote. However, you must put on multiple coats of either and the Permagloss is best used out of doors. You can skip the reducer for the K. K. as you need it primarily for cleaning the measuring tools and/or brushes. K. K. is great because it covers in 2 coats, if you allow some of the solvents to evaporate off the mixture before applying the 2nd coat. The black can Varathane from Golden Witch is a varnish with CP properties. I wonder if you can complete the wraps with Gudebrod 840? This is water based and nearly odorless. I often use it as an undercoat for the K.K.

I use Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane for all my guide wraps. It does take 3 or 4 coats but no mixing and it doesn't have the fumes that Permagloss has.

Query on the Helmsman Spar Urethane - does the can go 'bad' after opening it a few times for the 3-4 coats or does it stay liquid as long as you recap it? I thought that I read somewhere that Urethane hardens once exposed to air.

This is a very helpful discussion indeed.

Thanks,
Mo

Yeah, the urethanes are like that as far as I know. I haven't worked with any but the Permagloss on rods. It's a moisture curing urethane and sets up fastest in high humidities. Slower in dry areas. But sets up pretty darned fast wherever you're at. It's a really tough, durable finish and takes some getting used to. Don't try to put too much on, it won't set up smooth, then. Just a bit at a time.

Putter
Williston, ND

I have not had a problem with spar urethane going bad in the can yet. What I do is open a quart can, mix well with a stir stick and then dip whatever I'm going to use out and put into a plastic cup or shot glass, just as you would do with Permagloss, and then re-seal the can.

Bob

And store the can upside down.

Thanks Don, I foregot to mention that. And another thing don't put Permgloss in a plastic cup, it will eat it up.

Not all urethanes are moisture curing urethanes. Permagloss is, but for every drawback there is also an upside. Because it sets so fast (and can be accelerated by having a steam kettle on in dry climates) you can apply mulitple coats in just an hour or so. Normally, for finishing rod blanks two coats is really all it needs. Three at the outside.

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