I wanted to take a poll on how you go about integrating trim bands within your guide wraps. Please be as descriptive as possible. Here is how I do it, but I am wondering if there is a better, smoother, more "crisp" way. I find that I end up with a slight bump where the end of the accent band meets full circle on the blank. I keep the "bumps" on the underside of the rod so they aren't visible when fishing with the rod. Since the picture process limits the viewer to the best possible angle, it is tough to see on the pictures in the library on how the two ends of the accent band look where they mate together.

Here's my process.

Tape down the tag ends of the metallic trim band down at both ends on the blank out from the guide wrap area.
Start winding the black thread.
Keeping the black thread taunt, flip the accent thread back toward the beginning of the wrap and over the taunt line of black thread.
Wrap evenly the accent band around the blank and finish the band on the beginning side (left side for me) of the taunt blank thread.
Pull the accent band under the black thread (and to the right) toward the guide end of the wrap parralell to the blank
Keeping the accent band tight, wrap the black main thread over the accent thread toward the guide foot and up until finished.

The metallic thread doesn't sit "flat" when making the right angle direction change proceeding underneath the main thread before the securing wrap of the main thread is wound. This creats a bit of a bump. It is even more evident if you have multiple bands of thread integrated together in a decorating trim band like I prefer to do.

I had an idea that maybe utilizing an overhand knot when finishing the trim band before the right angle "pivot" might produce a more crisp look?

Since I am unable to tell by the pictures posted, I wondered if there is a better technique or process to follow that would give me the look of a constant ring of accent thread without bumps. Sort of like if you were to stack blanck rings together and throw in one silver ring for effect.

Thanks and I hope that description wasn't too confusing!

Domenic

From your description, I do mine the same as you. I'd also be interested to hear if anyone has a slick solution to this.

Erik

Same As with one small caviat: When making an inlay I normally go at least ninety degrees additional before I pull the inlay thread under holding the black tight. After three black rotations I pack the black and pull the inlay thread backwards to remove the excess ninety degrees of inlay thread. You can pull the inlay thread tighter after it is locked in place thereby stretching the tag and it will lay a lot flatter. I bet this thread will really get confusing as people try to describe this in writing.

Gon Fishn

I do it the same way. Burnishing is the only way to flatten this out for me. I seem to be able to get it to look pretty good, but when "rod builder's eyes" look at it, it's visible. I haven't ever had anyone around here even notice it when I'm done, though-but they don't have the "RBE's".

I have found using the Madeira Super Twist metallic threads as the main wrapping thread completely hides these bumps, though, and the bumps from the tag ends being buried. It's two threads twisted together and really changes the light reflecting back to the eye due to all of the different angles as the threads twist around each other. I've been using these more and more for this reason and also that they're prettier than a one strand thread-again, because they reflect the light differently and give the appearance of many different shades in the same wrap.

Putter
Williston, ND

I remember Mark Crouse explaining in his seminar in Charlotte the importance of burnishing all crossover points in wraps until they flatten out. His outstanding results are proof enough for me to do the same.

I do it the same way, finishing as Bill does. Only difference is that instead of going full length, I lay my inlay thread down about 3 wraps before I want to start it, do the inlay, wrap over the end 3 turns, then pull tight (see Bill's post) and cut both tags. Then continue the rest of the wrap. If doing a two or more colors, both colors go down the same way. 3 wraps before the first color and I pack and trim all tags 3 wraps after the last one. My tag ends are only under 3 wraps each. A good burnish knocks the little bumps out nicely.