I've been given the task of restoring a very old rod. The man loves it so much he wants to keep
the original guides, grips,seat,and butt etc.. He justs wants the blank refinished (any way I want to) because...it was in a fire.
There does not appear to be any damage from the fire other than all the epoxy scorched,bubbled,
and a bit melted. I've managed to easily remove all the guides, thread and epoxy, and am left with
a very chiped (down to the blank) surface finish- this is rod has seen lots of play. I was told the rod was graphite.
Around the ferrule all the paint etc. has long since worn off and the blank is a brick red -cedar wood colour?
It's quite nice and, if stripped down & clear coated- it would look better than any over paint job.
Q"s: Is there any way of removing the old finish down to the blank without destroying it? (scotch brite -wet sand ???)
If not what's the best method of evening out the surface so the paint chipe do not show through the new paint
job?
All theories, facts, and stories welcome. I have already read the library articles etc., etc.,
Thanks ALL

Eric there was a post the other day about using Strippeze and steelwool to remove the old rod finish. Maybe they'll repost.

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

I saw that when I was looking through the 9 pages in the archives Thank you!
I want to hear from others differant methods they have tried.
I was also wondering what opinions others have about using solvents to
strip down a rod?????

I just got a confirmation on what the rod I 'm working on is:
"Kwik Stix classic 2"- it's supposed to be made out of a graphite composite.
It's very thin walled and flexes like He!!

You could scrap with a dull knife, wash off, then carefully sand with 400 - 600 paper and a lot of water. Under very good light. I do it out side so I can see when it is clean.
There is also a mild striper that can be used.
Even a fine pad and water.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/02/2005 07:09PM by bill boettcher.

I may be wrong! I never use any kind of stripper. I use f soap and water and a scotch Brite suff pad and wet sand it to remove old finish. When this is done put a coat of U40 Perma Gloss on to put a nice finish back on the blank. Food for thought any thing that can chemically remove a finish can remove the graphite bonding resins
Good Wraps Bob

I may be wrong! I never use any kind of stripper. I use altos of soap and water and a scotch Brite suff pad. When this is done put a coat of U40 Perma Gloss on to put a nice finish back on the blank. Food for thought any thing that can chemically remove a finish can remove the graphite bonding resins
Good Wraps Bob PS sorry about double post

Bob Don't get me wrong. I don't like chemicals. But some one here said he has used a " Mild striper " For whatever thats worth

Hi Bill I think that if a party has experience using stripping chemicals and has a neutralizer close by it may work. I think I would put some on a old bank and used the recommend procedure for removing a finish. Clean it up and then wait a week then stress the rod out to see if it breaks. I have never seen a remover that does not state to use good ventilation and use protective gloves. That in its self tells me to watchout
Good Wraps Bob

Bob If one is careful most can be taken off with a dull knife. Then sanded.
I already snort too much chemicals LOL
Had one heck of a time trying to strip a Rainshadow transparent green Got to be an auto clear ? hard as nails !

I think it is a heat baked eurathane
Good Wraps Bob

Eric,

One thing you might want to tell your customer before you start the work that heat from the fire may have damaged the blank. If I remember right Tom told me that heat as low as 250 deg F. can damage a blank (If I'm wrong on the temp. Tom please correct me). It would be to bad for you to do a lot of work and your customer pay whatever and have a rod that might break on his first trip out. I would say that if the epoxy bubbled and melted there was enought heat to damage the blank. Or he may want it just for a wall hanger after restored. Just a thought.

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

Hank is correct about the heat. I have seen rods blow up that where keep in trucks when it was 100% out side tempratue. The windows were rolled up.
Good Wraps Bob

I have restored 5 old fiberglass and two old graphite rods in the last couple of years that had to be stripped down to the bare blank except for the reelseat in three cases, the label in one case, and in the case of a very old Wright & McGill fly rod to leave the handle & reelseat untouched. I heated the guide wraps with a small hairdryer to the point the wraps were uncomfortable (NOT painfull) to hold for 5 or 10 seconds so as not to damage the blank. After carefully removing the guides I gently scraped the blank clean. The best tool I've found for this is a plastic paint scraper, the kind sold at Walmart and many other places, cheap. Sand off the tapered or beveled end, leave an approx. 90 degree edge (you want the edges to be sharp like a steel scraper). I do this quick & easy on a fine grinding wheel. Hold this perpendicular to the blank and pull it towards you. Remember to use a light touch. Start at one end and scrape two or three inches at a pull. This works well. Hone your scraping tool as needed. You have two sides to use before you need to do this. Recently, someone on this site asked about painting a blank, so do a search if need be. Good Luck. Ralph

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/03/2005 02:46AM by Ralph Jones.

Miton, the fire also happened long ago and, the rod has seen heavy use
for a number of years since it happened. I know this fisherman and he
really whips his weight and bait out there....rod seems to be fine. I believe he was lucky!!
Thank you for letting me know however I WILL pass this info along.

Sounds like the blank is OK.

Yup - Sounds like the blank is ok

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.