I want to do clear transparent wraps on a fly rod I am building. I know I should use white silk such as Pearsall's Gossamer for the wraps. I want the guides to look like they are clinging to the rod without any means of support. The blank is a glossy Orvis dark grey Silver Label TL.

However, I have been given conflicting advice on the thread coatings. Some have told me that I *must* use a varnish such as the high quality spar varnish that Goldenwitch sells. After that dries, then I should use thin coats of epoxy such as Flex Coat Lite or U-40. Others have said just to use the epoxy without using the varnish.

This board has about as much rodbuilding experience as I've ever run across. So what is the best way to do these wraps - varnish, varnish and epoxy, or just epoxy?

Thanks for the help.

John
Waynesville NC

if you use gossamer and epoxy it is going to go transparent. test it first on the butt to make sure you like the effect. i think white is the most difficult. don't use excessive wrap tightness and burnish and pack your thread well.

Sounds like a case for test wraps. Test wtap ideas on areas of the blank that will be covered - it will answer a hundred questions....

Lou

John, email me at mayfield55.netzero.com if you want to talk about the following procedure--I live in Asheville. I've started using Mike Brooks' formula/procedure recently. I haven't tried for absolutely clear wraps yet, but it does a terrific job of turning lighter thread(00 nylon or silk) in the paler colors completely translucent, so I'm confident it would work properly with white silk for clear wraps. First, tightly packed thread with moderate, even tension is important to guarantee even absortion, then you need to get some good (oil-based, not urethane) spar varnish. I use the house brand from Ace Hardware, but there are pricier options out there,(like Man-O-War red can) in large cans if you will also be using it for a dip tank (bamboo). You'll need a bottle (4oz or 8oz) of Graham's Walnut Alkyd(I couldn't find it in the artist's supply shops, so I ordered mine from (fineartstore.com). I only use a tiny bit at a time, so I picked up a few 2oz airbrush paint jars from the arts and crafts store. Fill the jars half full of Walnut Alkyd and the rest with varnish. You can mix as much as you want, just keep the mixture 50/50 and use jars that don't leave much room for air. Boil some water (enough to come to the neck of the jar), remove the pot from the heat, and set the jar in the hot water until it cools on its own(I pre-warmed my jar under hot tap water and loosened the lid, but I was paranoid about shocking the glass--it may not matter). After the water has cooled quite a bit, remove your mixture, tighten the lid, and shake the jar to mix up the alkyd and varnish evenly. Now for the wraps:
With a small chisel-cut artist's brush, or whatever instrument you feel comfortable with, completely soak the wraps, then blot off all the mixture you can with a lint-free cloth(Mike uses old t-shirts, I use old handkerchiefs--just remember that the cloth will not be cleanable after this). Let the wraps sit for a couple of hours, than repeat. Let stand for 24 hours, then do it twice more as before. After these four coats have cured for at least a couple of days, cover with your regular finish. I use four thin coats of Helmsman urethane spar, but you could use straight oil spar or a two-part finish if you want. A couple of tricks I added on my own: warm the finish(mixture or varnish) slightly before applying. I set a tiny little ceramic bowl in another bowl of pre-heated water(30 seconds in the microwave) and maintain the temp with a cheap coffee cup warmer(kitchen stores have lots of useful stuff). I only take a little more mixture or varnish out for warming than I'll need and put it in the little bowl with an eyedropper. I also wet my brush in really pure artist's grade turpentine before starting with my varnish finish--not recommended or needed with the oil/varnish mixture, however. This thins the varnish just a little and makes brush cleaning easier.
Try this out on test wraps first. Cheers.
-Art

Try some clear mono fishing line

I would try Klass Kote epoxy paint, since it applies like a varnish. I would put it on just after mixing. I'll bet you can get by with 1, possibly 2 coats.