I was able to pick up an older fly rod for a song. The guides and wraps came off with no problem & some heat helped in removal of the cheesy grip and seat. However... The rod has an ugly paint job that is compounding the removal of some stubborn epoxy. What recommendations are there for removing the paint and leftover, excess epoxy (I've used heat already)?

Thanks!

Tim

I don't think I would try to remove the paint. I'm not sure of your situation, but I'd probably wet sand with 400 grit to clean and smooth everything out, then repaint and refinish.

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

The old paint can be removed with "Stripeeze" or the hardware store equivalent. Just follow the directions. May take multiple applications. I use a foam brush to apply and 0000steel wool to wipe the mixture off. Wear gloves.

Hadn't tried it Don, but guess I'm going to have to. Thanks!

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

Let me know how it goes. After the paint is off, you might do a final wipe with denatured alcohol. Then you get to decide whether to repaint. I recently re-built a boron rod with a very hard factory coating, but left it unfinished in matte dark gray.

I use a single edge paint stripper razor that is held in a little plastic thingy. Found it in the hardware store paint section. I hold it perpendicular to the blank and carefully scrape it (never slicing), with just enough pressure to remove the old paint/finish and getting it to peel up (seeing the blank underneath). I then clean up with denatured followed by gray Scotchbrite just before painting with PlastiKote. I was once asked if this took "big ones". My reply was that the size was proportional to the price of the blank :)

I've not had a problem with using a razor blade perpendicular to the blank. As long as you are careful not to slice the blank up it's no big deal. I smooth everything with 400 grit and ready to paint.

Jay

Thanks to all!

Tim

Have also used razor blade perpendicular to blank. Finish should come off wothout too much effort. Also used Plastic-Kote from Pep Bays. Take your time should work out fine. Bill

Tim, I'd definately go with scraping, but not sanding. I use the reverse side of a thick craft blade (ie the square edges, with the blade side taped). I've had no problem, even with Sage finishes and they're about the toughest in the business. The square edge won't cut the blank surface even if you slip. Just be patient and work your way up the blank, rotating as you go. Done properly, the blank will have that flat, grey, 'sanded' look, which you can leave as is, or recoat. I've rebuilt a number of top end rods with grey finishes this way and even built spare tips from other (broken) brands for some of my own rods - for example I have a 3 pce, 6wt PA Gatti with a spare #5 tip and a spare#4 tip, both from 2pce broken Sage's and they work brilliantly, making the one rod very versatile! Good luck, Jim.