i just glued up some cork rings with titebond III and it's clamped. the titebond bottle says keep clamped for 30 mins, then don't stress for 24 hours.

how do most of you approach this? how long before you remove the clamp and start sanding/forming the grip?

and a related question, does titebond III take wood stain once dry?

thanks

eric
fresno, ca.

Eric,I have been using Titebond for some time now and it seems that when the glue that oozes out is cured is a good sign all the glue has cured.Usually about an hour.i have had no problem sanding at this point.The only rpoblem I have had is forgetting to wax my mandrel and having the cork stick to the mandrel.Cork will fail before glue.Very good bond.

Eric,
I have not used Titebond yet but I get a good bond with Weldbond's Universal Adhesive. I normally wait 48 hours before sanding. I just posted a couple of pictures of a new grip that I finished this week. The pictures are a little fuzzy but you should be able to note that there are no glue lines showing. By the way, I really do like working with Andy Dear's "exotic" burl rings.
Cheers, Ellis

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/17/2005 04:17PM by Ralph Jones.

I use a two hour two part epoxy I get from the local craft store. It's thin and easily clamps with no visible glue lines. It cleans up easily with alcohol (91%). I do prefer Rod Bond for attaching to the blank, though. I let either of these set up at least overnight. I then turn the grip on my Jett mini lathe. I wear the blue latex/nitril gloves from the paint store to keep the 2hr. 2pt. epoxy off my hands and make cleanup easier. I know nothing about Tite Bond. Ralph

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.

Eric, If you keep a small area around the hole in the cork glue free you'll reduce the chances of having the cork gettng stuck to the mandrel. Just one of many tips I learned from Andy Dear's DVD "The Wood Lathe in Rodbuilding".

"If you keep a small area around the hole in the cork glue free you'll reduce the chances of having the cork gettng stuck to the mandrel."


oops. i mean .... i TRIED!!! but i will find out for sure later today...

thanks everybody!

eric
fresno, ca.

>i just glued up some cork rings with titebond III and it's clamped. the titebond bottle says keep clamped for 30 mins, then don't stress for 24 hours.
>how do most of you approach this? how long before you remove the clamp and start sanding/forming the grip?

I usually wait an hour or so ... Titebond III is gerat stuff.

>and a related question, does titebond III take wood stain once dry?

Never tried it but since I can't see any glue lines I'm pretty sure it will work just fine.

Here is a lousy pic of a 6'3" 1wt with Titebond III

Ellis,

I got some of the Weldbond Universal Adhesive to try, but noticed on a test that when it gets wet the dried glue turns milky. Do you see any issues when the grip gets wet?

Regards
Dave Boyle

>I got some of the Weldbond Universal Adhesive to try, but noticed on a test that when it gets wet the dried glue turns milky. Do you see any issues

None that I know of ... if I get too much glue I just clean it up with a wet paper towel.

well, i waited about 6 hours yesterday and there's basically zero glue lines. nice. but there are pits and holes i'm trying to fill. i tried sanding a small area of "repair" and it looks like the titebond III with cork dust mixed in was still too wet. so now that it's a day later, i'll try again later. off to my other world for now, the world of employment.


eric
fresno, ca.

By "issues" I mean if the Weldbond turns milky when it gets wet then to me that indicates it should not be used in a wet environment? I don't want to drop my rod in the water and then be worried about the integrity of the handle because it's wet... Have you guys used Weldbond for a long time?

Dave Boyle

After watching Ralph O'Quinn demonstrate gluing rings with Rod Bond in Charlotte and exactly following his methods, I glued up a grip (3 grips, actually) using Andy's exotic burl, burnt burl, and some foam craft rings I made. The Rod Bond, done properly, would be very difficult to beat here unless your time factor is that important. The Rod Bond needs a longer setting time, but that wasn't a problem for me. As an adhesive, I think that Rod Bond is pretty tough to beat.