Hi All,

I read quite a bit about the problems people have applying epoxy. Seams strange to me but I have very little problem with it. However CP is a completely different matter. I have no end of problems when I use it. Bubbles, bubbles and more bubbles. I have wasted more wrapping time with CP than I care to think about. Does anybody have any suggestion on the proper way to apply it.

Thanks

Jim

What brand of CP are you using. I have used both U-40 and Gudebrod without too much trouble. The U-40, in my hands at least, seems a bit more bubbly but they seem to disperse before they dry. My only problems with the gudebrod have been getting used to how fast it dries! I do think that the gudebrod keeps the color better than the U-40.

Peter

Try applying it with your fingers. This seems to cut down on the amount of bubbles.

with flex coat CP, I just load it on, let it sit for a few minutes, then use a brush to pull the excess off in the direction of the thread. never had bubbles.

The only other CP I've been using is glasscoat. It sets up pretty fast so I get best results by loading a brush, touching it down and rotating the rod by hand while pulling the brush slightly to the side, basically "barberpoling" it up the wrap, using the brush as a squeegee to push the extra forward. The motion of the brush is pretty slow so if any bubbles come up, the trailing edge of the brush gets rid of them.

I propose a different solution to the application of CP. I think you need to be very careful when you "apply" it on the highest shelf, far in the back of everything else, in the darkest corner of your work area. Hopefully your medication will erase the memory of where you put the infernal stuff!

Gon Fishn

Seriously, I wouldn't use CP except I need it for cross wraps, to prevent underlying threads from showing through. Either that, or do an all-metallic cross wrap and wear sunglasses even in the rod room.

Jim, I use CP on most everything! I apply it in the same manner as Mick above and as Mick, have never had a problem with bubbles.

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

I'm not as experienced as a lot of guys here but I just don't understand the CP thing. I have used CP (all the wraps, including guides & metallics)on an awful lot of rods and have done a grand total of 2 without. I don't consider myself a "highly skilled" builder but have NEVER had a dimple, pimple, bubble or whatever you guys are talking about (A lot of wavy finishes until I got the hang of that!). I realize that I may be awfully lucky.

I don't do anything unusual but I don't understand how CP could introduce bubbles if properly used. Actually, I THINK that it would seal any air bubbles in so that they couldn't get to the epoxy. I think that their may be a propensity by many builders to find it easier to blame the messenger, so to speak!! than teir method.

The CP debate will go on forever because their is no proof as to which side is right! I will say that I use CP/metallic threads on the majority of my rods all the way up to Musky and downrigger/Dipsey rods and have yet to have a guide wrap fail (other than getting stepped on or crushed) I have found that the guide itself will fail before the wrap does On the other hand, I do a LARGE number of repairs where guides have pulled out of wraps or the wrap failed on factory rods which, as far as I know, none of the factories use CP (economic reasons, not strength reasons).

I will conced that wraps without CP MAY be stronger, but steel is also stronger than graphite but I don't want a steel blank. IMO, the concern should be what is strong enough!!

This is just my opinion and I could be wrong, but I know guys that are known for their Tuna sticks that use a LOT of CP on their rods. I have asked before if anyone has ever had a CP treated guide wrap with a locking wrap fail (other than abuse) and no one has ever replied with an instance.

Mike

I like Bill Stevens idea. I am not a big fan of cp either,but have used without any problems. i drilled some dowel this afternoon to try Bill,s nail knot method that was demoed in charlotte short memory though might need a refresher. John

Jim, I can't imagine so many bubbles appearing during or after application if you apply CP straight from the bottle without premixing.
Are you mixing the solution or shaking the bottle before application? I don't recommend either method. I apply CP straight from a room temperature bottle (68 degrees).
I typically apply no more than one coat of Flex Coat Color Preserver to every wrap on every rod I build. I give each wrap a good soaking, but I wick away any loose CP, and allow it to dry for about an hour at least, before I apply finish.
Patrick