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help with fitting cork handle
Posted by:
Greg Mitchell
(---.dsl.stlsmo.swbell.net)
Date: March 21, 2005 06:04PM
I just received an american tackle wood accented handle and reelseat in the mail. My problem is that the bore of cork handle is a little too large for the blank-it came that way. I have never experienced this before. Always before I have had to file out the handle to make it fit.
My tendency is to make 2 or 3 tape arbors on the blank above the reelseat to make the handle fit snug and then coat it with epoxy before sliding it on - like is done with reelseats. The bore would still be too large where the top of the handle joins the blank but the winding check should cover that up. Has anyone ever done this before? Am I on the right track? Thanks, Greg Re: help with fitting cork handle
Posted by:
Robert Box
(---.adt.com)
Date: March 21, 2005 06:47PM
Yes, you're on the right track. Make 3 to 4, 1/2" arbors, prep your blank well for a good adhesion, and use plenty of epoxy.
(Its less time consuming/frustrating to clean up overflow than to have to cut off a loose grip and start over.) If your winding check still doesnt cover the handle ID 'gap', wrap that area closest to the handle with whatever thread you plan to use, and then pick a winding check 1-2/64ths larger that what you originally had, and add the check over the thread wrap. Makes for a nice transition as well as gives you a little wider check to cover the 'gap'. RB Re: help with fitting cork handle
Posted by:
Tom Doyle
(---.ipt.aol.com)
Date: March 21, 2005 07:38PM
How thick is the cork, how large is the gap, how long is the handle? If there is too much free space under the cork when you finish building, you risk compression damage when gripping the handle tightly, such as when fighting a fish. I'd opt for a continous drywall tape arbor for better rigidity; it can be laid in sections, in fact would be easier that way, but there should be no large empty spaces. Re: help with fitting cork handle
Posted by:
Mick McComesky
(---.nas3.saint-louis1.mo.us.da.qwest.net)
Date: March 21, 2005 08:27PM
I concur with Robert on the winding check and with Tom on the arboring. If you are working on a light rod, there shouldn't be too much trouble, but on heavier stuff, I would try to eliminate as much gap as possible. Don't rely on epoxy to fill the voids.
In a pinch, I've used butcher's twine to wrap the length, and when happy with dry fit, give it a coat of epoxy, let dry, then install as usual. With more serious gaps, drywall tape would be a good option. Re: help with fitting cork handle
Posted by:
Gerry Rhoades
(---.vnet-inc.com)
Date: March 21, 2005 09:47PM
I had the same experience with one these and they don't state anywhere what the bore is. Re: help with fitting cork handle
Posted by:
Greg Mitchell
(---.dsl.stlsmo.swbell.net)
Date: March 21, 2005 11:29PM
I've never used drywall tape. Is that something to purchase at a hardware store? The gap is not very much at all and is more pronounced at the front of the grip due to the taper. It is almost a perfect fit on the lower part.
Thanks for all the advise. Greg Re: help with fitting cork handle
Posted by:
David Gilberg
(---.pghk.east.verizon.net)
Date: March 22, 2005 04:20AM
Greg,
I installed one of the same type grip and seat just a week ago. Mine was also a bit too large but not by much. I chose to wrap the blank with thread in a cross weave pattern leaving lots of open space for the Rod Bond to create a secure connection. I use Fiberglass Dry Wall tape only when the gap is at least 3/8"or 10mm.. ...(that's 5mm between the blank walls and the seat/grip I.D.). Gaps smaller than that are easier to fill with thread or twine. The tape (which is sold in hardware stores and most Wal*Marts) is rather messy to deal with. Twine and thread can be wound up and down the entire length of the grip providing a solid base without adding much weight. For any gaps over 3/4" in total I'd use arbors. Flexcoat arbors seem to be the new standard. Here is a trick I use when working with Drywall Tape. I tie the end of each strip to the blank with thread. Then after buttering each strip I tie the coil against itself with another piece of thread which is pre-strung. This keeps the coil securely in place as I slide the seat or grip over it. Rod Bond is the perfect agent no matter which method you use. I hope this proves helpful to you. Good luck. Re: help with fitting cork handle
Posted by:
Tom Doyle
(---.ipt.aol.com)
Date: March 22, 2005 06:39AM
Greg: Yes, get the drywall tape at any hardware store, it is an open mesh type, and it should have some adhesive on it. But it doesn't stick all that well to the blank, especially after the rod bond is applied. There are various ways to secure it, such as in the post above. When I use it, I often do it in two steps: put tape on blank with rod bond, let dry, sand it a bit, then put the handle on.
But from your last post: it looks like a thread or twine arbor will be your best solution, as described above.. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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