While searching the history on guide placements the "place a guide on every ferrule, then do the static test" appears to be a very solid procedure. However, when considering 9' or 10' rods, the ferrule ends are going to be at consideratly different lengths on 3 pc rods versus 4 pc rods.

Would I be correct in assuming it is more crucial to try to get a guide on the ferrule in the upper tip sections and less critical on the lower butt sections?

I haven't found a lot on how far to place the guide from the ferrule end. For example, a 6mm Forecast sf is about 9/16" from the ring to the foot's tip and has an actual footprint of about 3/8" against the blank. Exactly how far should the guide foot tip be from the ferrule end in most cases? Thanks.

I don't think it's crucial to put a guide on the ferrule at all. If thats how it works out, good. It's easy to put a ferrule wrap on first, even if it's temporary, just to provide protection during your distribution test. if the guide falls on that location, cut the temporary wrap off and put the guide there. Otherwise, the guides will go where the test indicates they should.

Grant said it for me. The best place for the guides is where the flexing of the rod in the test puts them. Then, on spinning tackle the Fuji Concept places the butt to the choke guides, and the Static Displacement Test positions the rest. Ralph

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.

Sorry to disagree guys, but a guide on every ferrule seems perfectly logically to me. In answer to your question Tim, I make the ferrule guide wraps the same length or just a little longer than the others. Because it is on a ferrule, a slightly longer wrap seems to soften the look of the drop off. Say, about a third longer than the foot. And yes, it is a bigger deal on the tip section. You will have a non-guide ferrule on the butt section of a 5 piece fly rod. I don't see any reason to have a multiple piece rod look like a multi-piece rod. If weight is a concern, use titanium ceramics or Recoils.