1. What is the best method for keeping wraps uniform? I’ve been measuring from the end of the guide foot and marking with a sharpie. This works ok but I have had the mark bleed through on several occasions.

2. I currently use tape to hold guides in place. I see some pics where tubing is used. What kind of tubing is it and do you have to cut it once the wrap is started? Any ideas to help me kick the tape habit would be greatly appreciated.

3. I have heard wooden thread spools are great arbors is this true. Are they readily available at craft stores? I have quit using any kind of tape for arbors since I tried graphite. I am told wood is even better and cheaper.

4. I guess bottom line is I might have barley progressed past being a complete newbie and am seeking more knowledge and insight into this wonderful hobby. Maybe someone could recommend a good DVD or book for this level of ability. I still haven’t done any kind weave or fancy butt wraps but I really don’t think that is something I want on any of my rods. If it isn’t functional I just can’t justify the time it takes to do it. Of course, I made a similar statement about fly tying and now I have more feathers then a Tyson chicken house…

Thanks in advance
Mike Anderson
Nashville Tennessee

Here's a little something for question #1. I lay out all my wraps on an index card (4x6) before doing any wraps. Each guide of differing size has it's layout card. Along the 6" edge I make small marks with a pencil. I start by eyeballing the center of the card an making a mark on the edge. I then mark where the guide feet should go in relation to the center of the wrap (for two footed guides of course). This is done by measuring the length of the guide from foot to foot, dividing by 2, and measuring outward from the center we already marked. For a guide that measures 2" we will place a mark 1" on either side of our center mark.

After that I make another mark outside of the guide foot mark that is the distance I want my wraps to extend beyond the feet. Do this to both sides. After I have my reference card made up it is simply a matter of holding the card next to the blank and working from that. I make a small mark on the blank where I want the center of each guide to be. For guides with underwraps I make a light scratch & for guides w/o underwraps I make a pencil mark. I then hold the card up and line up the center from the card and the mark on the blank.

Jay

You need to take a hard look at the Flex Coat arbor system for mounting your reel seats. Nothing is quicker and few things are better.


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This is what works for me, what I've been doing ever since I started building rods.

1. After the guide is stuck on the blank at its location, I use a pair of calipers to measure the distance from the end of the foot to where I want the wrap to start, say 1/16". I wrap a piece of 1/4" masking tape around the blank so the edge closest to the foot is that distance from the foot. This gives me something to pack the thread against and it helps keep the end of the wrap square on the blank.

2. I used to use masking tape to hold the guides in place, but now I use guide foot adhesive to stick them on the blank for wrapping. I use masking tape for static placement testing, but need to change to something else, like surgical tubing or model airplance fuel line tubing.

3. I use Flex Coat reel seat arbors, unless I can get away with using a couple of layers of thread. I tried the graphite arbors but the FC arbors are easier to use. I can't imagine using wooden thread spools, too much time to turn them down to the right diameter and too much weight.

4. Tom Kirkman's book and Ken Preston's DVD would be my choice for a book and DVD. When you decide you simply MUST turn your own grips, get Andy Dear's DVD. Notice I said when and not if? It sounds like you will soon be badly addicted like the rest of us.

#1-I cut a piece of masking tape the width of the distance I want to start my wrap form the guide foot, I use the same distance for all guides. Then wrap that tape around the rod butted up against (close) to the end of the guide foot. Next, take another piece of tape and butt it up against the spacing tape, remove spacing tape and begin wrap up against remaining tape.

great advice above. one more thing i might add. this web site itself and those who visit it, as you can see from the replies, is a great resource. as a newbie myself, i found many of the answers you asked for by using the search function and inserting key words for each subject.

by the way, i use flexible mesh drywall tape for arbors, found at hardware stores like home depot. but the flex coat arbors are the cat's meow according to user reports.

eric
fresno, ca.

Hi Mike! You've already got some great advice but I'm feeling spendy today so I thought I'd add my $.02! :D

1. When I started I used a couple turns of masking tape to keep the outside end (technically the beginning) of my wraps straight, then counted turns to the trim wrap and again to the guide foot. I like to add a turn before and after the trim wrap every time I step up a guide size. For example, I might do 8 turns, trim, 8 turns on my tip top and size 6 sf ceramics, then 9 turns, trim, 9 turns on my size 7's, 10, trim, 10 on 8's, etc. After a while you'll drop the tape and just start wrapping, but I still count!

2. Ya gotta switch to surgical tubing or elastics. I actually use 1/2" "ouchless" clear elastics they sell in grocery/drug stores for little girl's pony tails. I just twist an extra few turns in them on the tip section to keep them snug. This is a HUGE help in doing static displacement/stress tests as you don't mind tweaking as much...with tape it sometimes seems like more effort than it's worth once you're "close but not quite". We will actually have these elastics for sale on our site VERY shortly.

3. Ditto on the FlexCoat arbors. Again, we've got 'em...we just haven't had the chance to add them to the e-store yet.

4. Ditto on TK's book and KP's dvd's...and later (soon?) ;) Andy Dears DVD on lathe work.

Have a good one!

1. Use a china marker, pencil, or make light sratches on the blank for marks. Get rid of the sharpie.

2. The tubing becomes consumable when used, has to be cut away. If interested in the "elastic" type of material use tiny rubberband with the diameter of a dime found in the hair accessory isle in most any drugstore, kmart, or wallyword. If you use tape place it in a position where any residue will be covered by thread. Do not leave the tape on more than an and hour, or as long as it takes to wraps the guides on. If leaving it overnight it is best to remove it/

3. Have been using tape arbors for more than 15 years with no problems. >PROPERLY< installed tape arbors are as durable as anything else. I have yet one to fail. I always fill the voids under a reel seat with epoxy paste (kardol). No voids = no moisture, and no soft spots that allow reel seat to flex and lose sensetivity.

4. Rod building is and ART that takes time and practice. NO BOOK is going to make you an instant expert, treat them as guides and practice practice practice.....

Lou

Go to a model/hobby shop and pick up some tubing that they use for fuel lines (it comes in various diameters) and cut it into tiny "rubber" bands and roll them onto the blank before you put the tip top on. They jold the guides tight and still allows fo adjustment. Onc enough thread is wrapped to hold the guide secure, a nick with a razor blade and they fly off

Mike

I start from the tip top and after wrapping the first guide I take a Compass, the things that you draw a circle with, and use it to measure the wrap with, a good adjustable one. All say #6's are the same, then as you get larger just add threads accordingly.
My guides I hole on with cut rubber bands. Wet the fingers and they slide along the blank very easy