Ok, I'm getting a little closer to starting my flyrod. Still reading everything I can find and playing with the parts. I have a question on the best sequence for building. Garcia seems to put the seat on followed by the grip then wraps last. Wingren Puts the grip on then wraps then puts the seat on. Im so confused! My next question is after putting a couple of pieces of tape on for the reel seat bushings I have a snug fit but a slight wobble in the joint. I can't add more tape bucause the insert wont clear it. I assume the rod bond or epoxy will take up the slack. Thanks Tom

On the butt section, I build from the butt upwards (for a fly rod it would be reel seat, grip, winding check, wraps. Since the blank is tapered, I can get a snug fit better by sliding each piece down the blank to seat it (after reaming, or building up the blank). Also, since the amount of blank extending beyond the seat (or inside the seat) affects the ability to put on the butt cap, I would suggest that you start with the seat and work your way up. If you have a slight wobble with the reel seat, the rod bonding epoxy should fill in the gap. You might want to stick a piece of toothpick or other object into the gap after bonding, to align the seat with the blank before the epoxy cures up. Have fun!

Find the spine first, then seat, grip, glue on tip top, stress test for guide location, wrap guides, clear guides, then the pretty stuff

Hey Bill, What does clear guides mean? applying epoxy? Does a coat of varnish make finishing easier? less fuzzies? Tom

Tom, I took Bob Widgren's class... He puts the seat on last for two reasons. First, he turns his cork on the blank, and he doesn't want to put a nice NS seat in a lathe chuck. Second, and why he recommends this to new builders, is that many rod dryer chucks won't fit a reel seat without modification. So just out of simplicity thats what he recommends. Personally I like to work from bottom up unless the chuck is going to give me problems.