Having some trouble wih CP, likely my fault in application, I've been using Gudebrod. When applied everything looks fine, however, when the expoxy is applied I get a blotchy effect with some spots soaking in the epoxy and turning dark. What CP do you use that seems the easiest to work with and gives the best results in retaining the true color of the threads?
Thanks
Mike

Sounds like your epoxy finish is contaminated. Check to insure you are using the correct mixing cups and syringes. If silicone is present in the item used to mix the finish then you will get what is called fisheyes (spots where the finish does not adhere to the thread). If you are applying your finish in Corpus Christi, TX be careful of the high humidity there as this can affect the finish. I suggest all rod finishing in high humidity areas be performed in an airconditioned room with an exhaust system.

Assuming you are using a water based acrylic color preserve on not the old lacquer, I doubt the color perserver is the problem. Also insure you are not using a bonded nylon thread. If you are using one of the rod threads designed for rod building i.e. Gudebrod, FishHawk, etc. this will not be a problem.

You also may want to dilute your first coat of color preserve with distilled water to insure all the air is removed from the thread. I also suggest you apply three coats.

Hope that helps.

BTW, hello from a Texas A&M CC Graduate.




Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/23/2005 01:30PM by James Ramsey.

It is not the CP. You may not be packing the wrap enough. What you may be seeing is the guide or blank underneath. It is particularly obvious when you wrap thread that is lighter than the guide or blank.

I have tried several.The one I solely use now is the Trondak U-40 brand.It gives me consistent results.I give it one generous coat and let it dry a couple days before finishing.The one thing I do is that I shake it up really good then I leave it sit about a 1/2 hour or so before using it.The bottle says to gently stir it,but I liked my results better after shaking it up-no tiny residue.Joel

In my experience, Gudebrod 811 holds spool color better than any of the rest. It can vary in the thickness from bottle to bottle. I generally cut it 10-20% on the first coat to help penetration, taking particular care to make sure the tunnels at the guide feet get filled. You need a real good flood coat to completely encapsulate the wrap. I usually use a second flood coat at full strength about two hours after the first. If epoxy seeps in the tunnels it can sometimes penetrate the wraps from the inside.

It might not be thread packing - it's definately NOT epoxy contamination.

How thick is the 811? I had this problem, and solved it thinning Gudebrod as Lynn recommends above, almost to teh point where it's watery. I then apply 2 coats. I used to apply one heavy coat, but once the CP thickened after time I ran into teh same blotchyness issues.

I recently have tried Flexcoat, as well as Varathane (or some other brand name water-based Polyurathane) with pretty good results (on a test butt wrap). I have not come to a conclusion as to which one is the "best" for me for all colors - I'll be doing a lot of testing this Summer with diffrent colored threads, diffrent CP's, different epoxies. Just to see how they look after a while in teh sun & which one fades, browns, etc, etc.

G'day Billy, is 811 usually thick as i have just got some and it is as runny as water, just wondering weather its the temp that thickens it. I like it so far.

Hello Mike
your problem is inadequte coverage with the color preserver. It is caused be one or both of the following:
Old color preserver inadequately remixing or to little cp on the threads.
For U40 Color Lock-
The best way is to mix the cp well and use two coats. Let the first coat dry for a couple of hours and then apply the second coat. Let dry over night before finishing.
Regards Joe Kassuba

His Rod Shop
Joe Kassuba

Myles - I assume it will thicken as the solvent (denatured) evaporates. If someone knows better please correct me, as I'm guessing. Thinner is better - I've done 2 coats with thick 811, it basically will not soak into threads at all, it'll just sit on top. As soon as you apply the epoxy, and especially if you heat it - it will find an openeing in teh CP sitting on top the threads, soak through and spread from underneath the wrap. Whereas if you completely missed a spot with CP and it turns compeltely translucent and dark - when wha tI explains happens t blotches - slightly darkening where it looks sort of OK not to cut it off, but noticeable.

I posted pics last month of a couple of butt wraps I did & tested this "theory" where I applied CP, a coat of epoxy, let it dry - then cut it off and looked at it inside out - that's the only reason I know this is what happens.

Thanks Billy, I will keep an eye on it then. Have fun at the show, don't get to bored walking around Charlotte tomorrow.

lol - Believe me I won't. I've got a lot of practice walking around doing nothing, I'm sure I'll find something to do & people to talk to. Too bad I'm not single, lol.

"It might not be thread packing - it's definately NOT epoxy contamination.
your problem is inadequte coverage with the color preserver. It is caused be one or both of the following:
Old color preserver inadequately remixing or to little cp on the threads"

I had this problem to. Been wrapping grey/black blanks w/ black thread exclusively, and decided to add some color to the rod. At first, I didn't use CP and had no problems, except the thread darkening against the blank. When I used CP, same problem as mentioned above - a marbeling affect on the threads.

My CP was thicker than syrup stored in a 40dF frig.

Is denatured the solvent to use? The bottle says clean up w/ water (Guidebrom).

George,
Mine says thin with alcohol (denatured will do), clean up with water.