Did anyone ever use a product called GoldRite to put their signature on a fly rod? What is the easiest method. My penmanship is pretty bad.

If that is the foil tape, then yes, I've used it and assume many others have as well. If your penmanship is bad, then it won't help you as you still have to write on the back of the foil. You're just transfering your signature to the foil which is then transferred directly to the surface it is held against.

........

If your penmenship is bad, and you want a professional look...
go to your local art supply or hobby shop ,and ask to see their "chart pak"
or "lettra-set" rub on lettering. It comes in hundreds of fonts ,sizes
and colours. It is EASY to rub them onto your blank, then put a layer
of protection such as epoxy over it.!

My hand writing looks like a 3rd graders. What I do is to carefully (like try to be neat) write the inscription onto a piece of paper the same size as the goldrite strip. I then tape the glodrite strip to the blank and tape the paper over the goldrite. Then trace over what was written on the paper. This same technique works great for putting a customer's own signature on a rod.

Make it easy on yourself! Check out Decal Connection. Great custom gold or silver metallic water slide decals that are great. You can buy just one if that's what you need

Mike

How do you put those water slide decals on a rod. I read about them but I'm not sure. Are they expensive?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2005 01:57PM by Bruce A. Tomaselli.

If you click on to Decal Connection's site, Jimi Ellis has a very good set of instructions to follow. Too bad we can't copy and paste this from his site!!

Putter

Bruce,
I second getting some decals from Jimi @ Decal Connection.
As far as how you apply the decal....
You put down one coat of finish. When thats dry you cut out your decal and soak in warm water for a few seconds, then you slide it onto your rod and there you have it. Make sure its where you want it and let it sit for 24 hours to dry. Then you put on another coat of finish on top.
Very easy and well worth it.
Hope this helps,
Noel

In addition to Noel's great instructions I prepare the surface with Micro Set, a liquid that makes a waterbreak free surface and helps the decal adhere. The 1 ounce bottle from Decal Connection costs a few bucks and will last a very long time; enough for hundreds of small decals.

Bruce,

Speaking from experience, pay an extra buck and get the new waterslide paper, It's well worth it!!!! I agree on the Micro Set

Mike



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2005 06:12PM by Mike Barkley.

Go with the Decal Connection advice , the water slides are a piece of cake after you have done a few . Do yourself a favor , get 2 , I'm sure you will be building another rod a some time , and they aren't expencive . If you can remember building plastic snap -together models , it's like putting on the little decals.................. soak them for a short time , and slide them into place. Take the advice and get the Micro Set........... helps prevent sticking . Let the first coat of epoxy before the decal dry thuroughly !!!!
Good luck , have fun, John

Got Fish ?

Couple of more tips on waterslide decals, dilute the Microsol or any decal setting soultion by 50%, most soulutions actually shrink the decal so it will fit around small details on models. You don't need that action for a smooth rod and if you are not careful, you could end up tearing the decal if you use too much full strength solution. You want the solution under the decal so as to make positioning easier.

Second, use distilled water, thus keeping any mineral waterspots to a very minimum.

That "new" waterslide paper is awesome. I won't use anything else. no more signing blanks with pens for me!!!

I just got some of the custom decals from Mudhole. They came out really good and are very easy to put on.

Warren.