I am building my first rod and epoxied my grip to the graphite and did't clear all the epoxy from the recessed part of the handle. I know, dumb. Now my reel seat won't fit all the way up in the handle. I was wondering what you might use to remove the epoxy? I am a little hesitant to use a commercial epoxy remover since I don't know what it would do to the cork and graphite. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I know I am having a very hard time visualizing exactly where the epoxy is that it shouldn't be; from where it does need to be removed; and which parts won't fit where (or move, like the reel nut and hood) because the epoxy is preventing a flush mating of adjacent parts. Could you describe the problem better.

Also, what brand of epoxy adhesive did you use. Did you try to use the Thread finish epoxy as an adhesive? (It is a poor adhesive and should not be used for anything but covering rod thread. If you did, that may actually help in this case.)

In general, a chemical stripper is likely to be too harsh on the rod blank or cork or reel seat finish to be used to remove that epoxy. In other words, you can't expect to dissolve the epoxy / adhesive. You have to plan on physically removing it with some kind of picking or scraping or filing action. Which must be done carefully, lest damage be done to your rod or its components. Plastic forks or knives, or end grain of wooden dowels or tooth picks may prove be handy tools. A judicious amount of heat (from a hair dryer or heat gun) may help crack a bond, but I'll let others who routinely do that describe it better than I can and who may have used your brand of epoxy.

Some other more active and experienced rod builders than me may have some other tricks up their sleeves for a situation like you will re-describe. But just to get back to you ASAP, that seems to be where you may be stuck for the present. Small amounts of alcohol dropped into a little crevice in a joint may help loosen a bond you want to break - but if it gets into a bond you do NOT want to break, that may also come unglued. LOL, -Cliff Hall-

P.S. - What brand & model rod blank are you building, and what kind of color / finish does it have? And you reel seat, model & size? Is there now so much epoxy dried onto the rod blank that you can't get the reel seat to slip into place? Is there now also hardened epoxy inside the reel seat barrel that needs to be removed before re-fitting? A rat-tail file can get the epoxy out of the barrel. Clumps of epoxy on the open face of the rod blank above the lower grip can be knocked off with a plastic knife and a little heat. Consider sanding to be a later resort in an area of the rod blank which is above what will be covered with the reel seat, foregrip, butt-wrap or fish / owner decal. Just take a step back and let it alone for a bit so you have time to think. You don't want to get bummed out and make another discouraging mistake right now that complicates things further. Just let it sit, and the Help you need will be on it's way. Later, -Cliff-.

To describe the situation a little bit more clear. I am using a G Loomis IMX 9-ft, 4-wt, 3-piece blank with a recessed cork handle for an uplocking reel seat. The epoxy is in the recessed area of the cork grip preventing the reel seat from sliding upto and flush with the handle. I am using a Hardman 3-5 minute epoxy from Cabelas. I was thinking about using some detist tools and or any little knife blade I can fit into the recess to try and chip it out.

Jeff - Now I got it. Hard picks, like a set of steel mechanics picks, or a fine point awl. Or a mattress sewing needle or ice pick . If you have a large gauge (like a 16 or 19 gauge) injection / syringe needle for livestock; they have a fine point, a great cutting edge on the bevel and are stout. Just be careful not to jab yourself with any of these, and don't gouge the blank, if you can. That is so far away from the tip, though, that you would have to practically punch a hole in the blank to do damage of any actual consequence. Don't wet the bond with alcohol; you don't want the cork coming loose as you torque around there with the picks. Take your time and be careful, and you'll do fine.

In fact, why don't you consider covering the cork around the hood with some wide, non-residue masking tape, to protect it from any aggressive handling. Resist the urge to twist the cork handle; twist from the butt cap side if you have enough to grasp on to. Keep your vise hand behind the tool, and maybe just lay the rod tip on a smooth table top. Just make sure nobody will walk in on you and step on the rod tip on the floor. ... Some guys with Dremel type tools may have some tips for you on how to get a mini bit up there to start a pilot hole for cracking off chunks at a time. That 5 minute epoxy shouldn't be too tough. Rod Bond or PC-7 would be like a rock. -Cliff Hall-

Thanks for the info Cliff. It is going to be some delicate work, but I should be able to work it out of there with some time and care. I will let you know how it turns out.