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Changing grip already on rod
Posted by:
Mike Steiger
(---.dsl.rcsntx.swbell.net)
Date: February 05, 2005 11:17AM
I've recently completed a rod where I made the grip from cork rings. I've fished the rod a few times and I love it, but I think the grip might be too large. Is it possible to sand the grip down while it is attached to the rod? I assume I'll need to find some way to attach the reel seat to my drill so I can keep the grip smooth and even, but I'm concerned that I'll damage the reel seat. Any ideas???? Re: Changing grip already on rod
Posted by:
Spencer Phipps
(---.lsil.com)
Date: February 05, 2005 01:29PM
Mike,
Masking tape the reelseat side of the reelseat to cork edge, and have at the grip with some sand paper working a little in one place that rotating the grip 1/10 to 1/8 turn so you got new cork under you and just keep working around taking off the same amount in each place as you go. Finish up with 400 or lighter paper, and a sanding block if it's a long straight grip, and you won't know the difference. Re: Changing grip already on rod
Posted by:
Skip Kerwin
(---.wi.rr.com)
Date: February 06, 2005 12:03PM
Mike,
I've seen an article somewhere (probably in Rodmaker) that describes a way to use a regular power drill and a couple of simple supports to make a "lathe" for turning cork handles. I've used the technique and have had great results. Basically, you shove an arbor into the butt end of the rod and connect the arbor to a drill which is clamped down in a vise (in my setup). The rod is supported in several places along its length in simple v grooved stands and the drill spins the rod (medium to slow speed). With the rod spinning, I just use several grades of sandpaper to remove material to the desired shape then finish with really fine sandpaper. Make sure to put masking tape on the blank in the areas near where you will be sanding so you don't accidentally scratch the blank. An arbor is made by running an appropriately sized bolt or screw through a piece of rubber tubing. A nut is used to compress the rubber tube against the head of the screw / bolt, causing the rubber to bulge and grip the INSIDE of the blank at the butt end. Or . . . . . you could do what Spencer advises and do it manually, saving a lot of extra effort. You'll get god results either way I'm sure. Skip Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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