I know that this has been covered over and over again but I'm still having trouble getting my mind around this one. Since I don't have the resources to have a wide range of guide types/sizes, where am I supposed to start with the new guide concept? I think that I understand that picking the guides first and using the system to simply space the guides is not the best way to do things. Is it however better than nothing? I can't seem to figure out where to start on this one. Any help will be appreciated.

Peter

What are you building? It kinda depends on the blank and what guides. I use Batson single foot guides and build all bass and walleye rods. I use single foot 25,16,08,fly 06 out to the tip. I used to play around with trying different sizes and heights and test casting and all the other stuff but in the end I never really gained much so now this is what I use most of the time. I'm sure others have other opinions but It works for me.

I will be building a spinning rod on a Rainshadow blank for light inshore saltwater fishing. The reel will be an old Mitchell 302. Like I said I can't afford to try many different guide sizes at this point but I would like to get things as good as possible. This will be the first rod I've built for someone other than myself (my father-in-law). Thanks for your response.

Peter

I would give batsons a call and they will probably tell you what will work the best. I have never seen the big waters in my life for all my rods are around 6'-6'6". Light duty. Others may be able to help if you know what blank your working with. I like the batson guides because they dont cost much and they work.

Peter,
Send me an e-mail and we'll figure out what you need to do. spoonplugger1@comcast.net.

Spencer

Peter: What you start with also depends, strongly so, on the reel you use. If it's a long inshore rod with a typical 4000 size reel, and if you are using Batson components, you might want to start with a size 30 VSLG, though a 25 might work also as Travis suggests, it depends on the actual reel when mounted on the actual rod. The position of the intersection point is also dependent on whether the reel seat was mounted truly parallel to the blank, just a slight deviation changes the intersction point quite a bit.

With a starting 30, a good progression would be VSLG 30, 20, 12, 8 to the intersect, then FLG size 7 or 6 fly guides to the tip.

A complete set of VSLGs costs less than $10; you really should keep a set for testing the setup. Even if you build only one rod (trust me, you won't), you will use half of those guides anyway, so it costs you less than an extra $5 to get it right.

First find the spine. Guides on or 180 from the spine is your preference-usually on the inside of curve on spinning
Next glue the seat and handle on - line up acording to where your guides will point
Then put your reel on. I take the spool off and use the shaft to line up the chock guide and the transition guides.
A streight edge along the shaft will tell you where the guides will be placed - line the shaft to a table edgewher the edge hits the blank is where the chock guide goes.
Several guides are then placed ( before ) the chock along this line - if you can get the line into the center of each guide - good, not totally necessary
From the tip top guide to the chock guide - usually the same size guides
When you look though the butt guides to the chock guide, they should look like a ( bull's eye ) each one centered with the other

You don't need a lot of guides to do this. Buy one of each of the Fuji New Concept High Frame models (or similar) and then a handful of small fly type single foot guides in size 6 or 7. In the Alconite series (or similar) you're talking less than $20.

This will provide you with all you need to set the system up properly. Worst case scenario is that you'll end up with 2 or maybe 3 guides you won't use. Just put them back for the next rod or consider those few extra dollars the price you paid to have a really nice performing rod.



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Using this system, is it common to use fly guides for the small guides rather than traditional spinning guides?

Pete,

I am just a recreational builder (building rods for myself only). I took the advice like that given above and just order a bunch of extra guides. The ones I didn't end up using I just returned to the place I bought them from without any problem.

Scott Hunt

Thank you!

Scott Hunt

Peter: You asked: is it common to use fly guides for the small guides rather than traditional spinning guides? Yes, very common, and I recommend doing this as a way to get the line close to the blank and to minimize the weight near the tip. Use a security wrap or, better, a Forhan Locking Wrap for these guides, actually, for all your guides. How to do this is in the Library here.

Thanks. I never would have thought to use fly guides. I have used the Forhan locking wrap on my rods with single foot guides.