What is the best way to keep the edges clean and even with flex coat, dura gloss, or aftcote? What is the best heat source to use to keep the room temperature stable through out the cure time? Any suggestions or reccomendations would be helpful. Last post I made everyone said to stay away from halogen lamps.

Sean, The best way to create a clean edge is careful application and creating a method to place your hand into a supported, resting position. My preference is to keep the finish on the wrap only, without overlaping to the rod blank. I approach the problem in a couple of ways. I apply high-build finish using a short-bristled brush, and starting from the inside edge, I allow the rotation to help me "plow" the finish until I end up at the point where I build the edge.

If the finish does overlap, I employ my rod building "eraser". I spray a little alcohol to a 1 inch by 3 inch piece of paper towel and press the towel along the blank and against the finish until I create a clean edge. My other approach employs a stiff fine point brush and I hand finish each edge without employing a motor. This creates a border on either side. All I have to do then is to apply finish to the inside of the wrap. I also use a rather large sewing machine needle to apply finish. The needle seems to work well because the tip will only hold a very small amount of finish, which forces me to apply it sparingly the each edge.

I have tried unsuccessfully to create edges using tape, and I think it introduces more ways to screw the finish up.

The bottom line to a good edge is practice and focus. If you trim your brushes, I do recommend you do it outside, or at least away from your finishing area. Those little bristles seem to have a way of locating themselves into the finish.

In regards to heating methods to cure the finish: I don't employ any special heat methods. I finish the rod in 68 degree rooms and let the catalytic effect of the finish do the curing. It is bad enough that I apply heat from alcohol burner to reflow the finish. I try not to introduce anything else into the process.

If you enclose the rod during the curing process, 50 or 100 watt incandescent household bulbs should warm the box enough to achieve an effective cure in a reasonable time.

For the life of me, I puzzled why builders do use heat sources against the rod to increase curing time. I guess in a real cold room where the finishing occurs, a heat source makes sense.

During the warmer months I work in my garage because I have a nice 3 foot by 12 foot rodbuilding table to spread out on. I can spill stuff and the wife doesn't care which is a bonus! I never did a scientific evaluation on this, but it did seem to take my epoxy quite a bit longer to cure in my garage. I did not have a "constant" temperature for one, and then there was the humidity factor as well. When the temperature was finally getting consistently cooler outside I moved my "finishing" operation inside. Holy Cow this stuff actually cures within the manufacturers specifications!!! Who woulda thought! Anyway, my current home has electric baseboard heaters (I hate them ...$$$$ to run) that give off a very consistent, DRY, heat. Whenever I finish a rod inside the house it sets up and cures perfectly and a heck of a lot quicker with the changing temps outside in the garage. There is a baseboard heater right below my bench that I turn up just a little when drying a rod and it works wonders.

When I finish building my new house I may consider building a dryer box up on the wall that is only encased in a fine screen or cheese cloth ( I think that's what putter uses) but that will just be to keep out contaminents. Since I am building a 12x20 room for strictly rod building, I am going to wire it for an independent thermostat since it will be in the basement.

If you are building inside I would just reccomend to have your drying motor set up away from windows and if there is a heater or ac vent in the room cover it with a filter. If you are drying rods in the garage build a box to at least keep out contaminents and possibly add the light bulbs to provide a constant heat.

Humidity doesn't bother epoxy finishes, but temperature greatly affects cure time. For every 18F increase or decrease in temp from about 70F, you will either halve or double the cure required for set and cure.

Application is easiest at about 70F to 75F. That temp allows the best range of working properties along with reasonable pot life.

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On the screen on my dryer box, I use a tack cloth. These cloths are a fine mesh and are sticky and attract dust; screens out the pesky insects, too!! I don't use any heat source because I work inside my home.

Putter