I never know what to put in the subject lines of things, so I usually just put whatever pops into my little brain. With that said...

Obviously everything you add onto a blank increases its weight, but somethings weigh less than others. So what can one do to build the lightest rods possible?

What type guides weigh the least?
Other than amount of thread used, does thread type matter?
What about epoxy? Does one brand or type weigh more than another? Can something else be used instead of epoxy?
Do painted blanks weigh more than unpainted blanks?

Or am I just crazy?

Hey Sean,
I think it is safe to assume we have all gone a little crazy at one point or another!!! LOL But with that said I think that the Titanium Guides from Fuji are the lightest, single foot even better! I would think tht it would be safe to assume that size A thread would be lighter than D unless you go down to the silk threads which are size OO (typically used on fly rods....
As far as the other questions regarding the paint/epoxy I'm not really sure..... Have to look to some of the experts out here!

Good luck!

Tom

In general, a lighter rod is a better, more efficient rod. And to save weight, you have to do it by bits and pieces, a little here and little there. But you also have to look at the big picture. The difference in epoxy brands or thread types would amount to differences that are so slight I doubt the human hand could ever really notice them. On the other hand, the difference between guides with bulky rings or heavy frames versus slimmer and lighter framed models can result in a different you'll actually notice on the water.

Always a good thing to try and build the lightest rod possible, just make sure to keep an eye on the larger picture - getting the rod to do what you want, be tough enough to hold up over the long haul and that sort of thing.

.........

I am particularly crazed in this department. It is very difficult to break the 1 ounce barrier with a fly rod over 7 feet. Since you are very likely to hang a 4 oz. reel onto the rod, small weight gains in the rod department, unless they actually add to the performance of the rod, are mostly academic unless you invest in a comparably light reel. The lightest components are REC thin wires as strippers and guides. Klass Kote epoxy paint for the wraps. The biggest single weight saving is a slide ring reel seat. The lightest I have ever achieved in a grip was a 1 piece korkalon grip with a turned down reel seat on one end of the foam and shrink tube rings. With a 1.6 oz. Forbes you can come in at 2.6 oz, sans line. I do have a 5 foot rod and Forbes micro that comes in at 1.5 oz and will cast 35 feet, but that is really on the margin of utility.

If you're going to the Nth degree...

Fuji titanium framed SiC's are the lightest ceramic guides I've weighed. 1/3 less than Alconites.

The black foam arbors are about 1/3 less weight than comperable sized Flex Coat arbors.

Regular cork is about half the weight of burl. And burl is about 3 times lighter than rubberized.

I've got actual numbers if you'd care to see them.

The Gatti FRHP 9' 5wt blank is under an ounce.
The REC Recoil snakes (single or double foot) are the lightest snake guides I have weighed. About half the weight of standard chrome snakes.
You can use Permagloss instead of epoxy.

I have built this exact setup and I will tell you it's a screamer. It requires very little work to generate a lot of line speed.

Christian

I am not an expert in flyrod building, although I have built several on a money-making basis. I would like to say that if Mr. Kirkman replies to your post, you can take it to the bank. His replies are always and well written and cogent.

Christian,
What reel did you mate to this lightweight Gatti ?

To build this light rod, remember to watch how much epoxy adhesive you use under the reel seat and butt cap, too. Guide wraps' finish epoxies are one thing, but also the amount of adhesive used. Don't try to fill the voids, just a thin glue line where it's needed.

Putter