This may be a dumb question but here it goes-- Just looked throught some of the photos and noticed one where the builder used small pieces of masking tape at the end of the guide wrap. I assume this is to get an even epoxy finish for your wraps? Do you take the tape off before the epoxy sets up? And is this the process that most builder use?

Bill,
I am not familiar with the photos you refer to, but I'm not personally aware of anyone who uses masking tape at the end of the guide wrap. I assume that process may be used so that an even edge could be attained, and I assume that the rodbuilder would have removed the tape soon after applying his/her epoxy.

When I apply my epoxy to guide wraps I work out toward the edge of my wraps, covering only the threads for all preliminary coatings. On the final coating I also work toward the edges and with little epoxy on my flat, soft brush, coat around 1MM beyond the edge of the thread as I hand turn the blank. I'm barely coating that 1MM, and am only defining the boundary of my epoxy coating. Then, as I continue to even my finish, I push more epoxy out toward and slightly over the thread edge. This step builds up some epoxy at the thread edge, but doesn't push past the boundary I defined with my very thin coating.

This works for me, though I'd bet there are many personal methods for attaining an even edge.

Good Luck,
Jeff Shafer

In the long run you'll do better freehand. Get yourself a block of wood or something to rest your hand on. Load the brush, hold it above the wrap, lower it setting the edge of the brush just past the edge. Now rotate the blank 360 degrees underneath the brush. That's all there really is to it.


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I guess the only time I use masking tape at the edge of epoxy work is at the front edge of marbling butt wraps. The reason I do this is because I'm working that area several times as I work the various colors into the base color. After it has set up for an hour, I carefully remove the masking tape and it does a pretty nice job of it. Once in a while, after it's dry, I have one small spot to touch up/remove some excess.
I think in the long run, I'd have trouble with this with guide wraps as it tends to work under that spot where the masking tape overlaps itself, even after burnishing the masking tape each time. Not every time, but too often. I'd rather freehand the guides; a bit of practice and you'll do fine.

Putter

Go with what Tom says. I also add a little heat to have the finish flow on to the rod . I get no bumps or ridges
Good Wraps Bob

I use masking tape on the edges in order to get a "clean" look. I prep all the guide wraps(as seen in the photo), apply finish with the last brush strokes up and down the blank, remove the tape, then go to the next guide. I make sure the tape is down firmly so that the finish doesn't wick under the tape.

No, its not a necessary step. But it beats the mess I make without tape. It works for me.

Someone recently posted that as the rod is rotating, they take a small length of thread, press it against the blank, and draw it into the "uneven" edge in order to "sharpen it up". I'll be trying that out next.

Thanks for the response. I just might try the string idea next myself. Bill

If you have to use tape to get a clean edge use clear scotch tape instead of masking tape and the epoxy will not wick under the edge.

With a little practice you can do it freehand and save all the time of masking each wrap, much easier in my opinion.

My ability to work epoxy more neatly along thread edges improved when I stopped using my upright thread wrapper to support the blank while I hand turned and applied epoxy.

Instead I use supports that I built out of 1x4 wood. A somewhat square piece of 1x4 supports a short vertical piece of 1x4 which has a V cut out and lined with felt. The rod section is now only around 2" above my table top. Depending on the length of rod section, I use two or three of these supports. Now, the palms of both hands are resting on my table top and are much more steady.

Email me if you're interested enough and I'll post a picture.

Jeff Shafer

I use a knitting needle to apply epoxy against the wrap, which results in a nice clean edge. If you try this, use a needle that is fairly fine tipped but rounded so as not to scratch the blank. Using the needle pull some of the epoxy from the the wrap as it rotates and hold the needle point against the edge of the wrap to distribute the epoxy around it. Once you have the hang of this it becomes simple and the results are near perfect.

Prepare the needle by cutting it to a comfortable length. I pull the bristles out of used Flex Coat brushes (the yellow ones) and force the needle into the hole.

I've used masking tape on days that I'm feeling especially shaky, usually if I'm doing the forward edges of single foots. Take the tape off before the finish sets up, 1/2 hour to an hour into drying.

John, I've never used knitting needles but why do you put a needle into a brush handle? I assume you use very small knitting needles? I only ask because my wife's knitting basket is sitting next to me and her smallest needles are about 1/4" thick. I'm having trouble visualizing here.

Be careful there, Mick!!! I'm sure Laurel knows how many needles are in the basket!!!!!!

Mike

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike - I use many different sizes of knitting needles, some for mixing epoxy, some to apply epoxy, others for doing the wrap edges, etc. The needles I insert into the brush handles are larger number 5 needles. I cut about 1" or so off the end of the knitting needle and insert in the brush handle, which makes it more comfortable to use. You don't have to do this, I just think it's better. I've even put some needles in wood dowel handles. I buy the knitting needles at Michaels craft stores and they come in many sizes. The only thing I use smaller sewing needles for is to apply epoxy under the guide foot "tunnel" wrap. Some knitting needles have points on either end and I use these too, mostly for mixing. They clean up real easy too, just a wipe with a paper towel and put them away. They really do a great job on wrap edges, the point just kind of tracks along the wrap egde leaving a clean and even lap of the wrap. I hope this helps, let me know if you have more questions.