Is it better to apply Cork Seal before or after your handle is glued in place, or does it make any difference? I have done it both ways with good results, and for me, it seems a little easier to apply Cork Seal (and let dry) before epoxying the handle to the blank.

Then I got to thinking....does the epoxy need air to fully cure, and would a sealed grip interfere with this process? Or does the epoxy cure without air? I seem to recall reading somewhere that cork is a 'closed cell' substance, but I not sure about this fact. While I haven't had it happen yet on a sealed grip, what about the times when epoxy works out through a pit in the cork after gluing the grip in place - would the cork need resealing there?

Sorry, I didn't intend to sound like Roseanne Roseanna Danna about this, but as always, thanks in advance for all replies.

Glenn

I like to apply whatever cork finish I'm using as the very last step of the complete precess, that way, I can do a final sanding with 600 grit sandpaper to clean up any finger smudges or dirty spots and get a nice clean finish for the sealer.
Murf

Once the grip is sanded and ready to be reamed, I put the cork seal on. After it's dry, I ream it and glue it onto the rod. This keeps the grip from being contaminated by anything by this clutz. The rod bond wipes off the cork sealed grip very nicely, too.
I apply the cork seal and then immediately wipe off any excess with a paper towel before setting it aside to dry. The bit that penetrates is all that does any good. Any more can change the color and, especially, the feel of the grip to me.

I agree with Randy it is better to shape and seal the cork before you start wrapping.
Good Wraps Bob

As I understand it to pack epoxy does not need air to cure. The curing process is by way of a chemical reaction.

Cheers

Andy Woodford

Cheers

Andy Woodford

My question is: do you always seal epoxy?. I mean, all commercial rods sold in Spain bring unsealed cork. It's intended they must be sealed by the buyer?. It's just a matter of aesthetic?.

When must cork be sealed and when not?.



Daniel

I would think that the longer cork is " not " sealed the more dirt can get into it!! So, seal it as quick as you can. Keeps it cleaner! Unless any cork from the factory has a plastic sleve on it, it will get dirty when being handled during shipping in the store etc.

I would think that the longer cork is " not " sealed the more dirt can get into it!! So, seal it as quick as you can. Keeps it cleaner! Unless any cork from the factory has a plastic sleve on it, it will get dirty when being handled during shipping in the store etc.

I would think that the longer cork is " not " sealed the more dirt can get into it!! So, seal it as quick as you can. Keeps it cleaner! Unless any cork from the factory has a plastic sleve on it, it will get dirty when being handled during shipping in the store etc.

Cork seal 'toughens' the cork a bit, too. It isn't so easily chipped and cut; plus the dirt problem talked about earlier. Sealed cork cleans up easily; unsealed needs to be sanded clean.
Most commercial rods sold here in the US are unsealed, also.

If you ike whe natural cork look, seal it. Some fisher people like the petena or weathered look for none sealed cork. Cork is easy to clean. Take a soap wash rag and clean of the dirt then take a medium scuff pad and buff it back to its origanal color. ,cork is vary dense and well not hold any real stain. It is only stained on the surface. you can also use wood bleach to get the white effect.
Good Wraps Bob

i clean my factory made rod (temple fork outfitters fly rod) over the kitchen sink, with a kitchen scouring pad, blue nylon scrub surface stuff on one side of a sponge and a little liquid detergent/dish washing soap. cleans up real nice. even dirty, it looks fine. pitted a bit, but i don't mind that.

i'll have to try sealing my next rod's cork, see what happens.

eric
fresno, ca.