Hello all.
I've got a GL3 that I built a while back and I hate the inscription. How can I take the epoxy off, and then redo the inscription? Is there something that will take epoxy (Flex-Coat) off but not harm the finish. (mahogony color) I want to keep the original decal on too but that shouldn't be a problem because there's a 1 or 2 inch space between the decal and where the inscription starts. Denatured alcohol? Lacquer thinner? How should I apply it? (Qtip, steel wool, etc..)
Thanks in advance.
Andy

Finish is easier to peel off than remove with a solvent.

What I would do is just sand it as flat as possible and then wrap over it with a background thread color or your choice. Then put a coat of finish down and let cure. Then make the new inscription on top of that and finish over it. Easy and looks fine.

I've done this before by shaving with a razor blade until just above the inscription, then sanding with 1000 and then 2000 grit to take off the inscription. Then refinish as usual.

Andy,

Do Not use Lacquer thinner unless you want to also remove the mahogony color on the GL3. Really Lacquar thinner has no use in rod building except for possible thining a lacquer base finish (IMHO).

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

Andy,

The only thing I can tell you about your problem is if the rods fishes the way you want it to learn to live with the inscription.

I think that if you sand the flexcoat off to get at the inscription you are going to get into the color of the blank. If you use Acatone or Denatured alcohol your proberly going to get into the blank color too.

Maybe someone else has a fix to your problem but I really think your headed for problems.


Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

I've done it like Mick (Dundee) does; CAREFULLY shave most of the finish off, then sand off the decal with very fine sandpaper while also blending in the area around it to the existing finish so that it'll look nice after applying a decal and a coat of finish on top of that.

i took off some flex coat over a blank's inscribed line weight (4 weight? NAH, 5 weight! sheesh) with denatured alcohol just last week or so. the flex coat hadn't dried for more tha 24 hours and it worked fine. my objective was to "erase" the sanford Silver Coat silver ink and that came off too. there was one small area of the blank's original finish which became a bit dulled, but the flex coat epoxy (thread finish) i applied afterwards cleared that up, nice and shiny again.

eric
fresno, ca.

I had the same problem last week. The epoxy was dry for a just a few hours when noticed the decal was scratched. By gently heating the epoxy I was able to pick it away. Then I prepped the butt wrap (which had several coats of Permagloss on it) with a gray Scotchbrite pad and re-wrapped over it. Two more coats of Permagloss a day apart and followed by a layer of Glass Coat. I applied a new decal and then a coating of Krylon Matte Fixative. A top coat of Glass Coat finished the process. This might be overkill but I like sealing the threads in Permagloss and then floating the decal on a layer of epoxy. the fixative protects the decal along the way.

This is one reason why a coat of clear should be put on the blank before the decals and inscription are put on. Gives one a better chance of " not " hitting the finish when taking it off