Hello,

I am in the thought process of building a UL spinning rod for pan fish. Everything I have read indicates that because of the length and diameter of the rod, there won't be much difference in the weight when comparing similar size blanks made with different materials, so I am looking for performance. Or should I say, cost effective performance. Though I am leaning towards graphite (my decision is not yet etched in stone) I am open to all types of materials. Realizing there are many different graphite compositions as well as fiber strands including the way they are placed to form the blank the question now is, which one is best? I guess the days of grabbing a rod off the shelf and taking it to my favorite fishing hole has gone to an entirely new level. I am not one that is stuck on, “it has to be 100% graphite”. There is a graphite blank description that reads with favorable results to me, it has a solid tip vs. a hollow tip. I’m not sure who the manufacture(s) are since the article wouldn’t disclose that information, but I sure would like to know.
I would appreciate any and all input regarding this since I am not familiar with all the different blanks offered at this time and this will be a rod to last me the ages.

I am also going to build a 3wt fly rod. If anyone has any good information about fly rod blanks I look forward to reading your comments.


Thank You,
David Horrocks

I would stay with graphite. I favor fast action UL blanks, which can sometimes be hard to find. One of the advantages of building your own rods, is that you are free to modify things to suit you.

For the past few years nearly every rod I've made for myself has been extended in order to provide a faster action than what is available from most blank manufacturers. You can read more about the technique in the Volume 6 #3 issue of RodMaker.

You might do a search under "3-weight fly rods" or something to turn up past comments about various fly rod blanks. It's been discussed here many times. Lots of good ones to choose from.

My only other comment would be not to shortchange yourself on length on these lighter rods. If your goal is to have more fun with smaller fish, keep in mind that a longer rod allows the fish greater leverage against the angler, thus a 1/2 pound bream feels bigger and effectively fights harder on a longer than it does on a shorter rod. Most of my UL pond rods are now 6' or longer. My 3-weight fly rods are 8' long. If you don't have room to use the longer rods then shorter is a necessity, but if you have room, you'll get more fight from the fish on a longer rod.

..........

Thank You Tom for your reply.

I also have done some searching and noticed your input on a reel seats size...I believe a size 18 is in order! I am also now aware that the finish process is a bit different on these UL’s than the heavier rods. I have started my own library on topics that are of interest to me. I am quickly learning the value of everyone’s replies in this forum since I am still waiting for the materials to build my first rod. What is interesting to me is that I have learned through reading the many different subjects (example: masking tape vs. drywall tape) that even with decades of experience there is still a situation that will arise where help is needed. From the advise of others I believe I will learn to use the new flex coat arbors for the reel seats since I know no other way. The only thing I have to do now is buy the drill kit to have on hand. I like the fact they have the matching ¼” pilot.
I will keep watching the comments and view points of others and once I've gathered all the information, make my decision.

David Horrocks

David,

I am just finishing a rod build on an American Tackle 701UL that is nice. One piece 7' long IM6 graphite blank that is rated for up to 1/4oz lures, line wt (printed on the blank says) 6-10lb test. I'm quite sure it will toss much lighter line and ought to get down to 1/8oz jigs with 2lb test line.
Just an alternative to the fly-rod route (which would be much more "ultralight" than the 701)

Thanks Ken,
I'll look into the 701UL. As for the fly rod, that will be another project since I have fly fishing only areas that I like to visit.

Thanks Steve for the reply.

It looks like I will have to consider building a couple rods at different lengths. The right tool for the right job is one of the mottos I live with in all areas of life.

With the difference in prices am I going to loose much performance by going to a lower priced rods when considering an Ultra Light?

When it comes to going salmon or steelhead fishing there's no room for sacrifice. I also believe since the rod is longer/heavier the better quality blanks offer savings in weight and perform hands down over the cheaper models.
Rod building will be a passion of love since I enjoy the sport of fishing so much. At this point in my life I am ready to make the step into quality equipment (if necessary) and I always felt having something customized to my exact needs is far better than going to the shop and buying a rod off the rack.
Thanks for the phone number and name of the company where I can obtain additional information.

David

I built an ultralight panfish rod for my Dad and it turned out awesome. He wanted a 2 piece, so I got a Forecast SP781-2CG. The blank was under 20 bucks and I must say that I was very impressed with the performance of the rod. It is rated for 2-6 pound test line and 1/16 to 3/8 ounce lures, has a moderate action and XL power.
When I tested it, as I test all rods I build before I let them go, I was able to cast a small bobber with 6 feet of line under it further than anyone else in the boat. It handled the limit of walleyes I caught with no problems, the biggest being 19 inches.
My Dad says it is tons of fun to catch bluegills on it.