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Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Michael Joyce
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: December 26, 2004 01:19PM
I'm currently removing the finish on a Lami XRA1205 (the lousy brown they used one year, not the translucent brown of todays XRA's) Anyhow, In the past I've been reasonably successful tinting flexcoat with testors pigment in refinishing blanks.
I'm sure there's folks that have refinished/tinted their blanks, and I'm looking for some current input. My plan is to thin flexcoat with up to 50% acetone(never used that much, only a few drops), and add a testors "pigment" or two. Any thoughts?...thanks in advance. Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Randy Parpart (Putter)
(---.nccray.com)
Date: December 26, 2004 01:24PM
I'd email Bill Boettcher and ask him for some ideas if he doesn't respond in the next 24. He does this a lot; puts them through their paces after doing it to make sure it's going to last. For a good finish on a blank, I don't think a 2 part rod finish, even thinned, is the way to go...
Putter Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Bob Balcombe
(---.rb.gh.centurytel.net)
Date: December 26, 2004 02:28PM
Micheal how did you prep your blank? this is vary imortant when refinishina old rod. Peronally I found it to be a pain in the backside to refinish myself. So what I did was prep the rod first and had a auto body paint shop shoot the rod. I had them using a 2 coat system with a flex additive added to the coloring material. I have a rod that was done over 6 years ago and it still looks great
Good Wraps Bob I think I paid 20 bucks to have the rod done Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
John Dow
(---.snet.net)
Date: December 26, 2004 03:40PM
Mike , I would concider using Permagloss with pigment , not the 2 part as Randy said . I have never done what you are trying , but I have finished fly blanks with PG . The only concern I have is the reactability of the Testors with the PG......It's worth a shot .
John Henry Got Fish ? Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Anonymous User
(Moderator)
Date: December 26, 2004 05:14PM
Flex Coat or any epoxy casting resin for that matter, would make a very poor finish for a blank. If you want to use an epoxy, look into the Klass Kote products in the column on the left. Permagloss is an obvious good choice.
.......... Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: December 26, 2004 08:06PM
The only thing I have had luck with is spraying with Plasti Kote auto paints. I like the matallic colors. Two " dust " coats. just enough to cover the blank. Let dry, overnight. Then two or three coats of permagloss I am playing with an auto clear.
Also check out the library page for articals on this, and a search of this board. A lot of info Also like Bob said above - 20.00 bucks ain't bad Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Lou Reyna
(---.hr.hr.cox.net)
Date: December 26, 2004 08:37PM
Epoxy paints designed for appliances. I use their black color alot. No problems, good adhesion, long durablity. The clear two parts epoxy paints from Hobbypoxy work great - I bought all the remaining stock from a vendor before they stopped making it. There might still be some stock left over out there.
Lou Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Michael Joyce
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: December 26, 2004 08:49PM
Twenty bucks ain't bad, but i want to do it myself. My goal is a clear coat so that I can see the graphite beneath. I have HobbyPoxy (somewhere) and also some Clemens Crystal Coat that seems similar but have never "tinted" it.
Can Permagloss be tinted with a testors pigment?...thanks Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
John Dow
(---.snet.net)
Date: December 26, 2004 09:09PM
Mike , I have some Klass Kote if you can wait 'till feb , I can bring it with me . John Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Doug Moore
(---.dfw.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: December 26, 2004 10:16PM
Yes, permagloss can be tinted with testor's
Regards Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Bob Balcombe
(---.rb.gh.centurytel.net)
Date: December 27, 2004 01:43AM
If you want to do the blank your self. I would first scuff the entire rod with a gray Scothch Brite pad (gray) Never use sand paper . Sand paper can cause rod failure if not done correctly. Then take a tact rag and wipe all foreign material off the blank and wash with denatured alcahol let dry and retact. To get a good job it must be done in a dust free envirment and at a temprture of around 80%F. most rod finishes have falure from forien material getting in to the finish. Thats why I reomend a auto paint shop.
Good Wraps Bob Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.an2.nyc41.da.uu.net)
Date: December 27, 2004 07:52AM
Permagloss is a little tricky to get used to. It sets up fast! Since you are going to do it yourself, maybe a varnish tinted. It should make it easier to apply since it does not set as fast as permagloss. Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Cliff Hall
(---.dialup.ufl.edu)
Date: December 27, 2004 06:49PM
The old Dale Clemens brand of Crystal Coat Epoxy thread finish is about the only brand of two-part epoxy thread finish that can also be used as a final finish over both rod THREAD AND the rod BLANK. Klass Kote (kk) is the only other one currently available in fresh stock, as Tom Kirkman said above.
CRYSTAL COAT (CC) is very good as a rod finish, and will adhere well to a properly prepared rod blank's surface ***. It can be used as a final clear coat or it can be pigmented. I used a white pigment once, and it yellowed a bit after a couple of years. I think the white pigment didn't agree very well with the epoxy chemistry, causing the yellowing. However, I'm looking right now at a rod that I did nearly 20 years ago, and it still looks great. The clear coat of Crystal Coat that I used over the Gudebrod Regular Thread DARK BLUE (#246?) overwraps and the very-wide LEMON YELLOW (#6778?) underwraps has hardly dimmed. (Used Gudebrod Color Preserver.) I re-finished the (originally black) blank with the CC + black pigment and the CC has held fast to the rod blank over since. The brand of pigment I used was something sold thru Clemens old catalog (1985, page 37). It was something originally developed as a pigment for fiberglass surfboards & helmets. I can't say by experience which of the pigments available to you would work with the Crystal Coat you have. If your stock of Crystal Coat is good, you can use that, mixed with your pigment. I applied the CC THINLY, with a quality natural bristle brush. Then I hung the rod blank VERTICALLY from the butt end. I think 2 coats is all it took, ~ 20 hours apart. Let cure at least 24 hours before building the handle. Better to wait up to 72 hours in case the pigment lengthens the cure time. I had no problems with the CC finish running or not "leveling". It is not quite as smooth as glass, but it reflects light with only the slighest wave distortion. You have to get within 6" to even notice the imperfections and within 2" to see the non-uniformities of thickness that cause the imperfect light reflection. Looking straight-on, it is black, so it looks perfect and it totally opacified / obscured the blank beneath. This was the 7-foot forward section of an old 2-pc surf rod, the kind with a 8" of wooden foregrip tapered forward and turned to accept the male ferrule cap aft. The reel seat was ferruled, and the rear handle was 2' wooden. It was very heavy, so your hands get tired. Work from the tip toward the butt. And as you go aft, if your hands get too tired, at some point you can rest just the very tip down on a hard table or hard floor to take off some of the weight from your hands as you continue applying the epoxy-pigment toward the butt. Then just carefully hang the rod from a string you have secured to the butt end from a swag hook in the ceiling and don't let any pet or any person touch any part of it for at least 12 hours. Check it by gently poking it with the tip of a toothpick, down near the butt end. If it doesn't indent, you'll be fine. But wait until ~ 20 hrs and test again before you apply the second coat. No scuffing required between coats. And no scuffing required when wrapping the guides with under- or over- wraps. I think the Crystal Coat has a pot-life of up to 30 minutes, so this is not a panic-speed job. Just make sure you make a batch large enough for at least one full coat. Clemens said you could keep the left-over mixed epoxy in the freezer (32'F), and it would still be usable the next day. I know that it did work for me that way, and that helped to make sure I didn't run out on the first application, and to gauge how much I would need on the 2nd coat of pigmented rod finish. I used a small glass vial with a screw cap to reduce condensation when re-warming before re-use. Do make sure to re-stir it when warm and before the 2nd coat. I had only the least problem with bubbles. They caused most of the micro-imperfections in the light reflection, not the failure to brush over every square millimeter of rod blank surface. However, I am sure that trying to flame the few bubbles out would actually be such a monumental disaster that I highly recommend deep-sixing that idea. Remember, the entire blank could be marred with one little slip of your hand or even set on fire in just a fraction of a second. Doug Moore (above) said: Yes, PermaGloss (PG) can be tinted with the solid / settled fraction of Testor's paints. (Pour off the oil / vehicle.) *** FINALLY, if you haven't done so already, do yourself a favor. READ: *** (1) LIBRARY: REFINISHING ROD BLANKS by Ralph O'Quinn. RMM-2(3). Originally appeared in RodMaker Magazine, Volume 2, Issue # 3. [www.rodbuilding.org] (2) LIBRARY: SURFACE PREPARATION by Ralph O'Quinn. RMM-5(2). Originally appeared in RodMaker Magazine, Volume 5, Issue # 2. [www.rodbuilding.org] Best Wishes. Don't use Flex-Coat for a ROD finish. I think the polyurethanes, varethanes and spar varnishes are generally recommended as ROD blank finishes. SEACRH RBO to see for yourself. -Cliff Hall, Gainesville, FL-. Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Michael Joyce
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: December 27, 2004 07:06PM
Thanks for your inputs and responses. Twenty bucks is looking better and better by the minute. Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
richard patton
(---.bay.webtv.net)
Date: January 01, 2005 10:43PM
stayed tuned, very shortely i will introduce a "sprayable" rod finish, available in 14 different colors.
colors are, black, white,red, blue, baby blue, yellow, violet, pink, green, brown, light green, dark gray and light gray. its a specialized formulated paint that is mixed with a newly developed 2-part epoxy resin, sprayed onto the blank. self leveling, no runs. Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
Kenny Lee
(---.iad.untd.com)
Date: March 23, 2005 09:45PM
Hey Richard so whats the news on the Sprayable Rod Finish? is it out yet? I am new to rod building and I plan to make a baitcaster with bright red fiberglass blank...but couldnt find any red blanks... Re: Blank Refinishing
Posted by:
richard patton
(---.bay.webtv.net)
Date: March 24, 2005 06:44PM
kenny
thanks for the intrest on the rod-paint. just this past weekend, i introduced the paint process at the RODCRAFTERS seminar. i got some very positive feedback. i actually developed this paint process 21 years ago, made about 6 rods, 2 rods were saltwater, so i know the finish holds up to the saltwater abuse. it took me years of r&d to come up with the proper paint/epoxy combination to get that proper "blend" that all 4 parts were compatable. not thinking that i even had a sellable item, the product sat on a shelf in my shop for years. i recently showed it to Dick French who ownes C&G tackle, he thinks its a great idea, and thats how the "test" showing all came about at the seminar. i have since filed for a patent, its registered, and is patent pending. now its a matter of gettng all the parts together to sell kits. it is unlike any plastic spray paint, which can chip, peel and fade. the rods i painted 21 years ago look like they were painted yesterday! What is nice is in the kit will be a "DISPOSABLE" aerosal sprayer ! i will keep you informed as to its progress. i also will have a catalog of rodbuilding items. 1.acrylic rod wrapper 2.peralized reel seat inserts 3.acrylic "trim rings" 8 colors 4.dymondwood inserts 58 colors 5.acrylic 10 rod dryer 6.paint kit 48 colors, plus 8 peralized colors. rick patton 5. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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