I know this has been talked about on several occasions, but when I looked at the threads it never meantioned what prep work should be done before attempting to put another coat over one that is tacky to the touch (did not fully cure).

In my case, it has been 7 days since I applied U40, I will apply FlexCoat over this time (have been having problems with U40, it's not the product, I am conveinced it is me) so going back to FlexCoat. Should I try to scuff the top coat with grey scotchbrite, or do I just need to wipe it down and apply directly over the top.

Is there any ill effects to coating over the top of a coat that did not fully setup, like less strength, or a coat that will crack severly later on, etc.?

Just to clarify, when I say tacky, it does not leave finger prints, just tacky to the touch, and you can indent the finish with the fingernail.

Mix up a new finish and give it a new coat. Sounds like you have too much hardner in your mix.. What finish are you using?
Bob

I had this same problem until I started mixing my finish on a different surface. I used to use plastic containers and the finish would never cure. Now I'm using aluminum foil and also paying more attention to my mixture as well and haven't had a problem yet. Knock on wood.

If it's tacky then you need not do any prep work. Just put another application over the top of what you have.

Be very careful with your measuring and mixing. Flex Coat will behave exactly the same way that the U-40 will if you do not achieve the proper mix. Switching finishes is rarely a cure for these type problems.


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I have eliminated the problem for the most part but still have a problem on occasion if I am not careful on the proportions. I mix the finish (Flexcoat) in a machined aluminum container and stir 200 times to assure complete mixing.

I have used plastic mixing cups, and use to pour it onto aluminum foil, but quit doing it because I was no longer getting bubbles. But it might be part of the problem. I think I will go back to doing it on aluminum foil since all those rods seem to have a real hard coat on them, and all the ones I checked last night that I believe I did from plastic cups seem to be a little soft (if I press real hard with a finger nail I can indent the coating).

Thanks for all the advice. I just finished wrapping four rod orders, and will need to coat them and will go back to the aluminum foil method to do them.

I can assure you that the plastic cups have nothing to do with the hardness or cure time of your finish. You will get a little extra working life by spreading the finish out on foil but if there is a problem with the cure rate or hardening, you won't solve it by switching from plastic cups.

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Tom, You are correct. I tried it both ways this weekend on 5 different rods. I used both methods, and I used U40 on all of them. The main difference is I used more material 3cc each instead of my smaller batches. This has seemed to resolve the problem for the time being. This would seem to make sense, with less material, any mis-match in hardner to resin is maginified. So I will just toss it from now on and buy more epoxy, that's cheaper than having to rework a rod.

I used to have this problem on occassion until I started heating the finish up with a blow dryer. Just heat part a and b up with the heat of a blow dryer then measure and mix. I don't know why but it does make a huge difference.