Well, I am about to build my first rod. I don't have a lot in the way of tools and I am sure those will be comeing in the future. My biggest concern is getting the epoxy to dry evenly. I will not have the luxery of a motorized drier so I am wondering how difficult it will be get the epoxy to dry evenly. Any idea's out there? I start working on it right after Christmas. Thanks in advance for anything that might help.

A lot of folks don't use a motor anyway. I use varnish and epoxy paint and rotate the blank 180 every 5 minutes or so for 1/2 hour. With regular epoxy, you may need 2 hours.

Wow, that was a fast response. I have been pouring over this website to the point where my eyes are like raisins and I have to read the same thing about 4 times to figure out what it says. I am pretty excited to put my first rod together (hope no one takes offense to this, but curse the holidays for getting in the way of my liesure activities) and its nice to find a good community of what seem to be incredibly helpful people. I'll be sure to keep up with everything here for things I need assistance on. Thanks again.

I actually get better results by hand turning. Like Don said, turn rod 180 degrees about every 5 - 10 minutes. Make sure the rod is level and turn as soon as you see the epoxy start to sag a little on the bottom.

Mike :)

Adam , dry the rod on the same jig that you are going to wrap it on . If that is'nt feasible , I have used a couple of cardboard boxes with Vs cut into the ends as a make shift drying unit . Getting the rod level is the most important part besides turning it frequently in the begining . Don has a good time frame as to how often to turn . Have fun , John

Got Fish ?

I agree with the above: a level rod supported in Vees cut out of cardboard boxes, turn 180 degrees every few min at the start, gradually increasing the time (watch a good game on TV, or read a book). I'll only add: when it sags at the bottom, you might want to consider removing some of the epoxy in the sag with a spatula, at the beginning, you will get a thinner, lighter wrap, though it takes experience to know how much to remove is enough. BTW, level means really level, check with a carpenter's level.

Thanks for the good advice everyone. I'm counting the days until I can get started on this project.

Adam Rossiter

When you say level do you mean the top or thr bottom of the blank.Taking the taper into consideration this would make a difference.I`m assuming the top.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

You want to try to get the centerline of the rod level. If you level the top then the epoxy will want to flow toward the reel on the bottom. If you level the bottom then the epoxy will want to flow toward the tip on top. If you level the centerline the epoxy will flow slightly toward the tip on top and toward the reel on the bottom, but rotating the rod will even this out.

Adam

My first couple rods, the epoxy looks like footballs. I used a slow rotating motor, but applied way to much.

Less is better - you can always mix up another batch if the first is to thin.

Suggest buying some of the elcheapo mudhole blanks for your first couple rods. Makes good gifts at a reasonale price.

Here is another question then, John Dow above said to dry it on what ever i use to wrap it. I have a fairly nice wooden wrap set up, but will the epoxy get on the felt that lines the V's?

Adam Rossiter

Adam,

The epoxy should never get close to the vee's You can also put a piece of newspaper or foil under the where the finis is being applied to catch ang drips,etc.

Mike

for years Ive used old timer motors from old washers and driers.a chuck made from pvc caps. you can use the box veed or make some from wood with felt liners.good luck,camen