What are you all using to center bore block EVA and getting a nice smooth cut without tearing the foam? If set up in a lathe, it would seem the block would need exterior bracing to keep it square and keep it from flexing while the bit goes through.
Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Check the photo section. There was a photo of a jig using a hand drill to drill EVA block. Hopefully it still there

Hank

Thanks Hank. I'll need to adapt the jig box to work on the lathe and try a few different types of bits but the pictures hit me with what I'd need to do.
Jeff

TAlisman posted those pics, and if you're gonna do grips along the lines of his, you need to take the time to set up the drilling box. I tried to do it by hand, and I got OK results one one grip, and.... uh...not OK results on the other.

I used a piece of sharpened Aluminum tubing to center bore the EVA - bad choice as it heats up very quickly. I'm going to look into other types of tubing for this, hopefully steel will work.

Hi Billy,
Either steel or brass will work. Steel is better. We used power augers using hollow steel tubes as "bits" when drilling neoprene cork in science labs. Just keep the edges sharp. Good luck.
Mike Blomme

That would probably make a good bit. If I get some time in the next couple weeks, I'll weld a shaft on the end of a sharpened tube, build a support to keep the foam from flexing, and hopefully it goes through it like butter.
Might be a usefull tool to have.
Jeff

First of all,I don't mean to be a smart by asking this. What is the purpose of boring long lengths of unbored EVA? Many of the board sponsors sell short butt ends for our needs. There seems to be a good selection of different I.D.s available in pre-bored lengths and colors as well. Personally,I believe that I can get a grip with increased firmness if the I.D. of the grip has to stretch some to allow the blank to fit. Is it just a stockpile thing by reducing inventory? Getting a better size match to the blanks O.D.? Please....enlighten me here guys(and gals).
Thanks in advance,
Chuck



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/18/2004 04:42PM by Tom Kirkman.

Chuck, check out the photo page under talisman

[www.fishingphotos.net]

If you make a multi-colored grip & force it to stretch to increase the firmness - chances are it will split. Then you'll have epoxy seeping out through the split, and no matter how hard you try to clean it, when it dries - the glue line will be as firm as a rock, lol.

Mike - thank you for the tip. I know Talisman uses a regular drill bit (it's longer than a regular bit though), and bores shorter sections at a time with no problems. I don't have long bits, and I think trying to bore a long piece it will wander - but I'm only guessing.

Home Depot has the longer bits

Chuck,
It's easier to make intricate designs in block EVA versus round EVA and much better to start with a solid block rather than one pre-bored so you don't have to worry about the hole lining up over the length of the block. What I'm trying to figure out is how to bore the block and maintain a smooth surface on the inside. Bits will generally tear the foam which might not be bad for adhesion, but can tear it to the point that it's thinner in some areas. This along with not being able to stretch the grip as much for the reasons Billy mentioned are what we're after. Grit faced hole saw bits might be an answer but a sharpened steel tube shoulod work as well or better. If companies sold designer grips they might do well selling them but it's nice to put your own ideas into something or match design and color over the length of the rod. I don't think anyone could stock enough of even one design in the number of color combinations that would please everyone.
I've also found the EVA i get carries a high durometer number. You do get a harder feel when you stretch a grip with a 1/2" hole over a .8 or .9 blank but you don't loose much using a grip that's 3/4". you can notice a difference but it's very slight.
Hope this helps explain the thoughts in this post.
Jeff

Thanks for the answers guys. I didn't mention splitting of inlaid grips simply because I don't do much of that anymore and haven't for a few years now. Kinda forgot about that part of the equation. As I didn't use power tools for cutting on angles and so on,I didn't take into consideration the holes lining up,compression of holes on cuts,etc. I mostly used blocks with the same I.D. What you are trying to accomplish makes alot of sense. I used the bored blocks that were available from Clemens and still have some left,as I bought quite a bit. I haven't bought any since. Being a San Diego transplant in Colorado,I use the EVA for my freshwater stuff and mostly hyp for my salty rods.The EVA was used for trim rings in my hypalon grips on occasion,because it offered more color options and I did have some discrepancies at times.I did my gluing on mandrels and then reamed the inside,if needed.
Jeff,I am interested in knowing where you get your EVA from. As I suspect its not a sponsor of this site,I would appreciate it if you would email me the answer.
Thanks again guys! I got the great answers I had hoped for from those that lurk and respond here.
Chuck

Chuck - you happen to have any of that Tan CG you don't plan on using?

Billy...you have mail