I'm new to rodbuilding and thought I'd share some of my first experiences. I bought a used Pac-Bay wrapper with lots of thread and accessories that was listed on the buy/sell pages. I'm fortunate to only live a few miles from the Mudhole shop so I picked up a blank and some supplies including Flex-Coat high build. The folks at Mudhole are very helpful too. I've probably used a few drums of epoxy over the years having professionally built surfboards, sailboards, my own custom flats boat, and custom golf clubs. I am always very meticulous about mixing epoxy resins but alas I have had an epoxy disaster coating a butt wrap on my second rod.

After four days of the resin not kicking I finally had to strip the butt wrap and scrape all of the gooey resin off. Keep in mind my shop has heat so temperature is not the problem. I even go as far a weighing out resin on a gram scale for small amounts. My question is this; does anyone else ever have epoxy that does not set from time to time or is this just a freak incident. I'm ready to pitch the high build and try a different brand. Thanks for any advice and suggestions.

We have all been there. Question; how is the surf board epoxy? Is it flexable? Think it would make a good thread coating? Have seen it on the Tap Plastics site but never tried it

Likely a "freak accident" ... Are you SURE you didn't mix two of the same part? (I've done that before through carelessness/being inattentive). The gram scale ... Hmmmm, most people measure by volume not weight. I don't know if that matters or not - the stuff should be about the same weight(?). What's most doubtful is that it is the fault of the epoxy. Some are very finicky about 50/50 mix- but not so much that it should result in a
truely "gooey mess". Uneven mixes most often result in a tacky finish not "gooey" or "drippy"

You would be amazed at the number of post relating to epoxy woes. Solution: varnish (LOL). Actually, I currently like varnish as an undercoat and Klass Kote epoxy paint (sponsor) as a final coat. This produces a very thin finish and is very user friendly.

I definately mixed parts A & B, the epoxy only semi hardened. It only reached the consistancy of hot bubble gum. As far as using surfboard epoxy, I think it would be way too brittle. Anyway, maybe I'll try dispensing from a syringe next time.

I'm with Don. I only use Permagloss or spar urethane now. Granted it may take an extra coat or two, but no mixing, just open the can or bottle and go for it. Have not tried Klass Kote yet but have some on order.

Mark,
I think that you will have better luck if you measure equal parts by volume using a syringe rather than by weight using a gram scale.

I am currently playing with an auto clear used on rubber bumpers. Never seen one of them crack, fade, chip

Many of us measure our 2-part epoxies using plastic syringes. I commonly measure exactly 2.5 ml of each, then dispense into a plastic mixing cup, mix gently and thoroughly until clear and uniform, then pour out onto a bit of foil to get rid of bubbles. Using mainly Flex-Coat high build, but other epoxies also, I have never had a failure to set in two years of building. Usually, the epoxy is firm but still tacky after a couple of hours, non-tacky but not really fully cured overnight, ready to fish in two days (three better). Test the excess epoxy on the foil to see how it's going.

Wrap epoxies really must be measured accurately, so syringes are the way to go. I don't clean them out between use, just put them away with the plunger up, and carefully marked as to which is which.

If it doesn't set, the most likely explanations are: (1) Accidentally measured different amounts, such as 2 and 2.5 ml. (2) Got the amounts right but did not measure carefully enough - large air bubbles or other mistakes. (3) Did not mix to uniformity. (4) This happens: mixed resin with resin, or hardener with hardener. Last, least likely, but I suppose it's possible (5) manufacturer mislabeled the bottles.

Mark
Mix by volume (syringes, kitchen measuring spoons, pumps). Mix thoroughly (at least a minute). For High/heavy build pour it out onto a sheet of aluminium foil curled up at the edges (that will release more bubbles in the finish and retard hardening giving you some extra working time). Apply in thin(ner) coats. High Build finish you may only need one - but that coat still should not be really "thick".

Stop weighing your epoxy - that's your problem. You must mix by equal volume, not weight.

Never mix less than 3ccs each of your resin and hardener. This allows sufficient margin for error in the event you are not 100% accurate in your measuring.

Penny wise and pound foolish is applicable here - don't worry about wasting a quarter's worth of finish against having to strip off the guides and do a total rewrap.

.........

mark
i have been building rods for three years now and ive never had the problem that you are talking about, ive tried all the finishes and i use a 3 cc syringe full every time i dont even clean the syringes(well just wipe them down) i just put them in separete small plastic bags and label them and put it in another bag with the bottle that i used it from, my finish dries completely with no worries

i dont think you should use the scale

sante

I'm currious to see the difference in wieght of the two parts ...did any one wiegh the two sepratly ?? That is most likely the problem , as I've never had the concistancy of bubble gum after the two were mixed . The tin foil is a great tip , I usualy cover a kitchen plate with it . John

Regarding mixing of epoxies-
Ralph and I will be in the Trondak booth at the Charlotte show. Come on by and try or discuss U40 products. We will have a couple of demonstration and trial setups that you can use in the booth. Drop by for a visit.
Regards Joe

I watched Joe Kassub's demonstration of epoxy finish techique at last years Charlotte Show and it solved all my problems. It's a good idea to see a pro's technique for doing it.

Stan