@#$%& all -

I'd appreciate thoughts on the following please:

While it's common practice to use arbors or tape to "fit" a reel seat to the blank, why could one not do the same with handles (cork or wood). As such, it seems to me, that one could create a handle with a consistent bore size and simply match the OD of the arbor to the ID of the handle bore. No reaming... no filing etc. At minimum, this would be faster wouldn't it?

Any comments (.. including I've lost my mind :-).

Cork is easy to get a snug fit. Wood many over bore and since it is on the heavy side then put arbors in so they can be a little lighter. Can not see why they can not all be the same size ID and then use arbors to fit Just use a good glue like Rod Bond

The only thing I have heard is that after a while the handle can begin to creak, also building it up with arbors and the glue would make it more expensive and heavier I suppose.

Myles

Thanks fellas.. and that of course should have been "HELLO" ...mmmm. Any other remarks. I would think that, given the prioce of cork these days... would with a cork or graphite core could be very cost effective and functional.. Some concern over weight though????

The new Flex Coat arbors have rendered about any other method obsolete at this point. Faster and stronger than tape or cork and they don't cost much at all.

Robin, Consider the materiel differences between the reel seat and the handle. Reel seats are made rigid, using either graphite, wood, or metal. Gaps between the blank and the ID of the reel seat usually are not critical flaws as long as most of the id is bonded to the blank.

Most rod handles are made with soft, pliable, materials such as cork or eve, wood not withstanding. Gaps in the bond can be critical to the integrity of the handle. Aside from squeaking due to friction between the rod and the ID of the handle, cork will fall of from the handle in those areas, if the handle is particularly thin. I can attest to that.

There have been times where I did shim the front of a pre-made cork handle to create a fit. The purpose was to eliminate gaps, not create them. Also, why create a logistical problem for yourself. The less you need to create a close fit, the better. Shims for handles would get in the way. I also try to match the ID of reel seats to the final location on the blank. Fine fitting the components on a rod, from handle to reel seat to guides to finish, as closely as possible, is attainable, even for casual builders.

Patrick Vernacchio

Think of the opportunity to explore the various wines made in this country.

I turn my own wood grips, and counterbore them to fit the corks from wine bottles.
(I love to turn a good Merlot cork, great aroma) This lightens the wood grip, and allows me to fit the grip tightly to the blank. Plus, I get to enjoy the wine a second time.

Do they make the Flex cote arbors with wine scents?

tight lines
Bob Hughes

Myles
Hmmm... Silky oak wine casks for handle material and cork bungs (aged in the cask, mellowed of course). Might cast poorly but by the time you drained the dragon a few times to prep it who would care!

Bob, That is a great idea, integrating the cork stoppers from wine bottles. I've benn collecting a few over the last couple of years to make end caps for my rods. Just haven't quite figured how or which rods.
Patrick Vernacchio

I bought a bottle of Smoking Loon merlot that has a rubber stopper. I hope that is not a sign of things to come for our rod building cork supplies. In the meantime, I am stocking-up on burl cork.

I've tried the rubberized, and plastic corks. They don't have the same ambiance,nor do they turn well on the lathe. Alas, the true cork may be on its way out. So many rods so little time.

Bob

I like the burl cork much better than what passes for cork these days. I think that the quality is very consistant, you know what you are getting and it turns, sands and shapes very well! It's also more durable

Mike

Can you post a picture of your wine cork handle?