To RodBuilders
I have been tying rods now for about 3 years. By tying looks great, but I can never seem to get the epoxy to be as smooth and as flat as i want it to be. Do any of you have any hints for me?

Thank you
Garrett

I think the most common mistake is putting too much on (assuming you're using two part epoxy style rod finish). Try less and see if you get more!!

Putter

Post removed

How many coats do you use and what type?

Garrett, I think you're doing the right thing. You're asking for fresh advice after doing the rod building thing for a time. Sometimes I think I need to stop and ask questions like that as well. You never know what information you'll pick up, even from newbies.
So, since you asked, make sure the rod is level and follow Putter's advice. If you do apply too much, stop the motor and try to move it along the wrap to fill in the dips. Wick some of the excess off with a "little" alcohol torch heat and pull the excess from the bottom of the wrap. Don't try to accomplish too much in one mixing. If you can comfortably work 3 or 4 wraps at a time, then stop, and mix a fresh batch of finish to complete another 3 or 4.
If a wrap doesn't turn out like you wanted, you can shave or sand some of the epoxy off and apply a real light coat of finish, just enough to cover any cutting or sanding marks.
Patrick Vernacchio

I use three coats of flex coat 2 part epoxy

Garrett,
You are talking about low build, right? I hope that isn't high build that you are putting on three coats. I used to put too much on and it looked like a football.
Randy

If you are not using the Lite build version, try it. I used to use the high build.
I use 2 coats. Unless you like the deep look, once the threads are covered, the rest is just excess weight.
Once you have the epoxy mixed, spread it out on some aluminum foil. This will dispate the heat. You don't want to cool the mixture but you don't want the mixture to cure faster by its' own heat.
Start with the smallest guides first when the epoxy is the thinnest.
I apply the epoxy turning by hand. Coat the thread overlapping onto the blank. Stop turning the blank, using a tooth pick, fill in any gaps where the guide foot turns up. Move to the next guide FAST! Not looking for perfection. Looking to get plenty of epoxy on each and every guide when the epoxy is the thinnest.
For larger guides and decals, apply the epoxy by turning the blank but finish by leveling with brush strokes up and down the blank.
Finish by popping bubbles via heat and/or tip of the toothpick.
Remember you are not looking for perfection on the first coat. You should have to add the second coat to cover the thread on the guide foot and the edges of the wrap.
These are not the end all, be all of finishing. Just what I have picked up from this web site and personal experience. Check out the library tab listed above.

Hope this helps...Kevin

I have been trying new things that I've picked up here. First is I hand turn for first 30 min or so. I start with turning 180 deg till it looks like it is going to drip do this a while then I go to 90 deg turns. I start power dryer and let it run a while I check for sagging and low areas along bottom of blank, then I take a spatula and just touch a sag it will stick to spatula then I slowly work toward a low area to fill it in. Don't touch blank just let epox stick to tool. I use Custom classic lite it can be played with for over an hour. I do wish it would set a little faster but I do like the way I can go back and take care of things I didn't notice first time and second time and third time ect.... I'm still learning.ED...

this was shown to me by a rod builder named john, i had never heard of it before but it works for me.

turn the rod @ 18 rpm and apply the finish starting at the ends of the feet. start with a light coat and when the bubbles stop and the tunnels are full load it on rather heavy, slow the speed down a bit and let it start to kick, it still has to flow but you want it kind of thick. after you do a couple you will know but it is acually quite forgiving.

now the weird part. stop the rod with the guides up(of course) and let the excess drip off, the top will level itself, the bottom will need a little help, when it looks about right thickness begin with the smallest guides (they will need it first) and smooth off the bottom clean the feet as required and then turn the drier back on a slower speed (i like 6 rpm)

thats it.

Slow turner, about 18 RPM. Level rod. Glass coat thinned about 10%. I start in the middle of the wrap then work to each end. Wet. Then I check to see if it looks good after about 10 minutes. One wet coat usually is enough. No CP

You might also read the article on finishing by Rich Forhan in the online library on this site.

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