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another newbie guide CP question
Posted by: john black (63.146.104.---)
Date: December 13, 2004 08:30PM

wrapped 2 rods over the weekend with regular nylon size A thread, and used Gudebrode CP, 3 coats each. i let em dry good on my power dryer and saw lots of splotchy black places on the wrap as if the threads turned transparent in places, and can see the rod thru the wrap. put on U-4- PERMAGLOS and the the thread that didn't turn opaque was great but ......... the wrap looks funny. what did i do wrong ??? BTW- the wrapping, as you guys predicted, is getting easier everytime i do it. ALSO- i want to do an all wood handle next, but taper reaming a cork and wood accent handle is killing me. takes forever and wears out the reamer. there HAS to be an easier to ream out the grip! i started out to do a rod for my son for x-mas and now my other son and daughter will get one too. i should own stock in mudpit and a few others! THANKS

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Re: another newbie guide CP question
Posted by: Ellis Mendiola (---.dsl.hstntx.swbell.net)
Date: December 13, 2004 09:27PM

John,
It looks like the CP did not penetrate the area that is blotchy. I have not had good luck with the Gudebrod CP. I use the Flex Coat CP but even that product leaves little specks on the thread sometimes. As for the reaming, I build my own handles. I learned on this board to take each ring, before gluing, and drill the hole pretty near the circumference of the blank, glue the rings and do a final reaming after shaping the grip.
Everyone has one problem or another when you are first starting rod building. You will pick up ideas as you go along.

Cheers, Ellis

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Re: another newbie guide CP question
Posted by: Doug Moore (---.dfw.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: December 13, 2004 09:28PM

John,

Sounds like you new to spend a little more time burnishing/packing the threads. The dark spots are where the thread has not been packed tight enough.

Regards,

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Re: another newbie guide CP question
Posted by: Doug Moore (---.dfw.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: December 13, 2004 09:29PM

uhg, that should have been need!

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Re: another newbie guide CP question
Posted by: Ken Preston (---.longhl01.md.comcast.net)
Date: December 13, 2004 09:32PM

Possible that the CP didn't dry between coats - or actually more likely the thread wasn't packed together tightly enough. It will be tough to see now without some heavy magnification but look at the wraps where the color turns from what you expected and where it is mottled to see if there are small, SMALL gaps. Burnishing the thread to pack and flatten it might have helped.

Reaming out cork shouldn't be a problem - go to your local hardware store and get an 8 - 10" rat tail wood rasp -- go SLOW because they can take out a lot of cork in one to two passes. Stabilized wood is painful with any rasp and if you're using a home-made reamer using epoxied on grit you already know how really painful that is on your palm and forearm muscles. If you have access to a drill press with a good clamp you can drill out successively larger diameters - take out the minimal amount each time and you should be ok. Best of course is a lathe with a center bore attachment -- Perhaps Andy Dear will jump in with some other (likely better) ideas.

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Re: another newbie guide CP question
Posted by: john black (63.146.104.---)
Date: December 13, 2004 09:41PM

Ken Preston wrote:

> Possible that the CP didn't dry between coats - or actually
> more likely the thread wasn't packed together tightly enough.
> It will be tough to see now without some heavy magnification
> but look at the wraps where the color turns from what you
> expected and where it is mottled to see if there are small,
> SMALL gaps. Burnishing the thread to pack and flatten it
> might have helped.
>
> Reaming out cork shouldn't be a problem - go to your local
> hardware store and get an 8 - 10" rat tail wood rasp -- go SLOW
> because they can take out a lot of cork in one to two passes.
> Stabilized wood is painful with any rasp and if you're using a
> home-made reamer using epoxied on grit you already know how
> really painful that is on your palm and forearm muscles. If
> you have access to a drill press with a good clamp you can
> drill out successively larger diameters - take out the minimal
> amount each time and you should be ok. Best of course is a
> lathe with a center bore attachment -- Perhaps Andy Dear will
> jump in with some other (likely better) ideas.


actually, i DO have a small lathe. i will check on a center bore attachment. THANKS GUYS. will pack the threads titer next time too.

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Re: another newbie guide CP question
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (---.152.57.139.Dial1.Atlanta1.Level3.net)
Date: December 13, 2004 10:15PM

If you thin the CP very much, then most of what you're putting on the threads is just water, or alcohol, neither of which will seal your threads against the top coat of finish.

The two most common culprits of thread blotching are thinned color preserver and threads that are not tightly packed against each other.

..................

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Re: another newbie guide CP question
Posted by: John Carlton (---.bc.dl.cox.net)
Date: December 13, 2004 11:11PM

Yes buy your self a good burnishing tool. You be happy!!!
Our do like me and just take your time while you wrapp you guides and itll cut down on your burnishing.

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