Going to give the LS a try this weekend, haven't read the instructions yet but thought some of you might have some tips for a first timer with this stuff. Thanks,
Murf

Hi Fred,

High Build or Low?? I think that the biggest mistake is to put it on too heavy. I wouldn't flame it. Heat isn't really necessary and they strongly recommend sgsinst it.I have best results applying it length wise with a brush. I hold a cut to size playing card held lightly against the turning blank to level it. Use the search and type in LS or LS Supreme and you should get a ton of posts.

Mike

Mike: Forgot to mention high build, did a search and the playing card trick seemed the most mentioned, appreciate the input.
Murf

Murf,

Don't put it too heavy. I just put enough on to get good coverage brushing lengthwise. Let it do itself for about 10-15 minutes and use the playing card if it looks like it needs it!!

Mike: Thanks!

Hello Fred
Just as Mike says do not use heat on any U40 LS Supreme epoxy. If you use heat it will cause it to boil and have many bubbles. LS will release bubbles withour heat. For single coat coverage, you can put much more LS High Build on than you can LS Supreme.
If your applying LS High Build it will self level unless you are using way to much ie, it is sagging as it turns or is turned manually. LS Supreme will self level very well for thinner coats.

After mixing pour it out onto a flat surface and let it spread out this reduces thermal mass and will give you more working time. Try and have your ambient temp around 70 deg F or more. Either LS Supreme or High build will cover well in one application. However many users put on two or more thin coats of LS Supreme and get good results that way. Trondak recommends applying epoxy using a spatula. But if your a brush user that is OK too just don't tell Ralph. Putting Epoxy on lengthwise for other than guide wraps is a technique that works well for longer wraps of thread work or feather inlays. Measure equal parts of Hardener and Resin and mix thoughly. Trondak recommends that you not mix less than 3 CC's of each. This is not to sell more product but to reduce the possibility of having a miss mixed batch. However if you can measure accurately less amounts have at it. A good thing to do is leave the left over epoxy in or on the surface that you poured it out on and test that to see if it is setting up after 6 or 8 hours. It is best to let the first coat cure for at least 12 to 24 hours before attempting to add another coat. There are many ways to remove excess epoxy sags. A playing card, or piece of coffee filter, or a spatula can be used to skim off the sagging epoxy.
Regards Joe Kassuba

Heed Mike's advice on not using heat with this LS High Build!! It just doesn't like it much. Other than that, it's a good finish, Gerry.

Oops, sorry Murf; was thinking about Gerry's post and accidently put his name there-must've been a BF.

Putter, sounds like you need some sleep.

Joes directions are great. They should be included in the LS Suprem directions
John Kepka

I always tell my wife: "Sleeping is way over-rated."

I know LS will boil and create bubbles if overheated... but honestly, I use an alcohol lamp and apply heat to almost every single wrap that I finish with LS Supreme and LS Highbuild to remove bubbles... and as long as you keep it gentle it is not a problem. I'll also go back after 45 minutes and make minor touchups if necessary after the finish has thickened a bit. I'll use heat to level the touched-up spot... again... as long as it is gentle heat... no problem.

I've had plenty of occasions when bubbles did not pop on their own with LS Supreme and so I am inclined to use heat to pop them whenever possible.

I've found that it is more tempermental on the first coat... probably because it is still displacing air from the threads.

My two cents...

Erik

I guess it wasn't on the guide wraps that I used to have trouble with heat and LS HB. It was on longer areas (butt wraps or signature areas). In these areas I have been in the habit (with other finishes) of just warming the whole length of the area. The two times I did it with LS, it appeared that I had the right amount on (same in all areas-no high spots; not way too much) but it got the "waves" both times.
Without heat and cutting back a bit more on the amount of finish, I don't have that trouble anymore.
On guide wraps, I've never had a bit of trouble with this crystal clear finish.

Putter

Brief, gentle application of heat will not cause problems with LS. However, the type of "torching" that some folks use will definitely result in boiling the finish and the creation of thousands of micro-bubbles.

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