I know we've beaten this one to death, but I want opinions on pilot pits versus brad point bits. I have found a source for 10" brad point bits, and want to know if they will run true on the lathe, drilling reel seat material. I can't find pilot bits 10" long.

They might but it will depend on the quality of the bit and the accuracy of your lathe, not so much whether it's a brad or bullet type bit.

The longer bits I've had tend to be no so very straight and it's hard to get them to center easily. Once in the wood they do track straight though. I just use the common B&D Bullet Point bits. I use the standard length and most times just swap the insert end for end boring half way through each end. I can usually meet in the middle pretty accurately.

Fran I have used brad point bits to drill stabilized wood inserts, and my experience with them is once they get into the block , I have a hard time keeping the points clean. They seem to fill up with resin and tend to wander very easily. I have been using the 135 degree split point bits, and have had reasonable results. Main thing is to keep the bit clean of chips and go slowly. I have got 8" bits, so I only have to make one pass. I also start out with small holes, 1/4 and then ream to fit the blank. I have the bits in the most used sizes, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8" . If any additional reaming is needed, usually I can get it done with standard length bits once the insert is turned and trimmed for length. I do my turning with mandrels, that way if the hole is a little off center from end to end, the insert will still be concentric once it is turned, thus eliminating an off center hole drilled after turning and ending up with a discarded insert.

Galen, I have never heard of 135 degree split point bits. What was your source for the 8" bits? Also, instead of drilling 1/4" and reaming, couldn't you drill bigger and use an arbor to fill the gap, like the Flexcoat arbors? I haven't reied stabilized wood yet, but is it hard to ream to size without getting off center?

Fran I got lucky and found the bits at a local surplus store, they were brand new bits by Vermont american. You can get these bits on many sites on the internet, just do a search on drill bits and then either parabolic bits or 135 degree . These bits have flutes that are designed for faster chip removal. these are not the magic cure, but for me they have been very helpful, some companies are Irwin, Vermont american and just about all of the companies sell them. Just the length is the problem. The split point helps the bit stay aligned. The reason I cut the inserts to closely match the rod blank, is the sensitivity factor. The rod tip will have a pronounced feel for lite bites and activity. The cut inserts are like anything else if you get them too thin they can become very fragile when machining. Stabilized wood, oak , or just about any type of wood when drilled at lengths of over 2 inches have a tendency or should I say the bits have a tendency to wander, especially in the smaller sizes. A lot of people drill from both ends and hope the holes will match. Andy Dear of Lamar reel seats uses mandrels also, as do a lot of people when machining seats, as do some of the people who make wooden handles. I cut the inserts ID to the size of the foregrip area and ream with rattail file or reamer to fit butt area.