All,

Recently, I've had a couple of orders for Lamiglass fly rods. One buyer wanted a Bellinger seat (720N), which I ordered from my dealer in the largest ID that I could - .420. The rod butt was .460. I found the Bellinger seats to be difficult to chuck accurately because of the reel foot miter, but I finally managed to get it bored out accurately and installed after near ruin. My question is two part. What's the best way to chuck seats with miters (colletts??) and just how thin can you bore out a seat? I had another guy come in wanting a similar rod for which I had Bellinger bore the wood to .010 oversize - burl ash - and it sure looks thin just under the miter. Some of the Lamiglass blanks have butts as large as .500, and I hate to think how thin a Bellinger seat would be. Stuble's without the miter may be better.

Thanks,
Jim

I had similar problems with various pieces of wood on my lathe since I began not making everything round. With a cheap insert or even just a round piece of stock to practice on. Chuck a rat tail rasp file in a electric drill and run it in reverse! you would be amazed at how strait it will run with the already bored hole. It will bore right through it. But dont run the drill in the forward speed. it will ruin the wood and maybe you hand as well.

It's best to either file by hand or put the file in the chuck on lathe and run it in reverse, or use a drill.. You have to be very careful you dont split it. Dont get them too hot. I have spilt a few myself but after you have broke a few you get better at it.. If you have to take off a bunch and the milled part will be to thin then the best way is to file by hand, that way you can take off more on bottom of seat.. Thanks Dave