Well, I've tried everything I can think of to loosen the 5 minute epoxy on a reel seat I glued up and clamped on the rod, only to discover minutes later that the threaded barrel twisted a hair, and is not perfectly aligned with the seat insert. Since this rod is for a customer, and I haven't been able to figure out how to soften the glue and correct the alignment, I have ordered a replacement seat, handle, and blank. Ouch! There goes my profit. But I am not putting my name on a rod that isn't as perfect as I can make it. I want to keep this guy's business, and have him speak highly of my work.

Anyway, anyone out there have a sectret for softening this epoxy? I tried a little heat from a hair dryer, even tried immersing the seat in boiling water. Wouldn't budge.

I would have used rod bond!! Try hot water. Some sort of heat. Rod bond would have given you more time to adjust things before it set up. Live and learn

I have always been told that 5 min epoxy is not waterproof and should not be used. I also prefer Rod Bond.

These guys are 100% right on w/ RodBond.

I've lived, I've learned. Thanks for the Rod Bond commercial.

If you have just glued on the seat and nothing else you can just cut off the seat with a dremal tool and replace it before wrapping and finishing. If the rod has been completed cut the rod into in the center of the reel seat,remove old seat and bushings, make internal plug about 6 inches long,make new bushings,get a new reel seat.Glue plug in butt section .Glue two sections and new seat together being sure to line up the seat hoods with the guides. Jesse

Take a pot deep enough to cover all or most of the reel seat with water. When the water starts getting hot enough to start forming bubbles, immurse the rod into the water for 4 or 5 minutes at a time, checking for release by gently twisting the reel seat. Within 15 minutes, the bond will soften enough for you to completely twist the reel seat and anything between the seat and the end of the rod, off. As long as the water doesn't get past 220 degrees and your rod isn't sitting in the boild water for more than 15 minutes or so, therod laminates should not be affected. I've performed this practice with 2 flyrods to changes the seat out to better upgrades with absolutely no ill affects. Even the immerse cork was solidly reuseable.
Patrick Vernacchio

I knew my latest idea would come in handy.

This works with the least hassle if the seat is reversed, ie the threads butt up to the foregrip. If you haven't put on the foregrip yet, fine. Otherwise remove it.

Copper pipe, as close in it's O.D. to the I.D. of the reel seat. You'll need a piece about 5 inches long (I'm assuming you are talking about skeleton hardware). Use a pair of diagonal nippers (wire cutters) to nip out teeth in a sawtooth pattern around one end. A small file will help in shaping afterwards and sharpening the teeth. What you now have should resemble a "stretch" hole saw. The extra length is to give you something to hold on to. Shim the blank with tape just ahead of the seat barrel to allow the pipe to slide over and stay clear of the blank. Two shims close together will work great.

Now apply some elbow grease. Push the "cutter" in and twist to "saw" off the reel seat from the inside. Clean the epoxy off the inside. You'll knock off some of the insert too, but a little tape + epoxy can be used to bring the diameter back up to where the barrel will fit it again. Plus it'll be hidden when you reassemble. Paying attention to fit and finish will make an almost undetectable repair.

This works!! I used this method today to reuse a seat on the rod I'm rebuilding.

If you decided to cut the blank use Jesse,s idea , may I add that whne you cut the blank cut it at a angle, this well insure you the you well get a perfit rod alignment when you glue it back togather.
Good Wraps Bob

Try an industrial heat gun. About $69 at sears. Be sure ot plug it in a receptical that is rated - otherwise you will see your lights dimming and blow a breaker. This will soften the 5 min epoxy enough for you to remove it - protect you hands while pulling the seat off as the gun can transfer a lot of heat.
Kenneth Prager

A lot of good ideas. Thank to all for the help. I won't be cutting the blank. I believe I can fix this. I may also have thought of a simple
solution. Since the threaded part of the reel seat is off by only a mm or so, I am going to try to rework the wood seat a little to create a little symmetry. The affected area is so small that I don't believe the rework will affect the rod's performance. The reel will still lock in correctly, because the recessed hood is correctly aligned. In fact, I wish I had thought of this solution earlier, before I ordered new components. It is a two-piece 3 wt. I may try the hot water again once more.

Be careful with the water vs. the wood seat; it may wreck it, Fran. Boiling works well for all others, but wood and it don't get along very well...
Putter

Fran,
Keep at the boiling water method - It will work eventually, it may take a few times boiling it and trying to twist it. Make sure you have the whole reel seat submerged. If it seems like it's getting too hot, put it down and try again in a few hours.
And to cheer you up...if this happened with rod bond, you'd never get it off !!!!!!!!
Glen.