Hello,
I am actually an old reader of this forum, found lots of good info here.

I have one problem: ordered CTS blank, it was shipped via DHL - and guess what - they broke it :(

Fortunately Stephen sent me another one free of charge. All I can say - flawless blank, beautiful color, great service!!! Thanks Stephen

The broken blank is 11' 7wt. 4pcs. DHL made a total mess out of the ferrules. So I decided to cut the crashed parts from each section (approx 8") and make a spigot ferrules. The blank has shortened down to 8'. Here is the question - what can I use for making spigot ferrules? Can I use hollow graphite blank for that?

And one more - did blank shortening changes rod wt.?

thanks
vytautas

P.S. I did search trough this forum, but there is links to the Rodmaker Magazine. I am in Europe, and can't get the Rodmaker here :(

thanks
vytautas

You can get the magazine through William Van de Vorst in The Netherlands.

You will want to make oversleeve ferrules. I can't remember if I put this article in the online library or not, but it is in the magazine. You would use fiberglass for the sleeves (larger diameter, thus glass instead of graphite to keep the stiffness about the same).

You may also be able to get by with internal spigot ferrules but the sizing and wall thicknesses of the pieces are critical.

..........

Thanks Tom,
Actually first I thought about the overlseeve, I have an old Orvis rod that has that kind of ferrules, but they look so massive, that I decided to try spigot.

By the critical thickness you mean that walls are to thin and could not hold the pressure? Maybe I could make a longer ferrule wrap?

Actually walls of that blank are thicker than most of the ones I saw.

The problem with an internal sleeve is that a smaller diameter requires thicker walls in order to share the same stiffness as the pieces it's joining. In itself, that's not big deal and you've got some leeway, but on very small diameter blanks you may find it difficult to get small enough spigots that will still hold up. You may even have to move to a solid plug.

Then there's the question of sheer forces at the edges of the spigots that can result in failure at that/those points. Some of the major blank makers get by this by either hollowing or tapering the ends of the spigots to make them a bit more flexible. This starts to become even more critical on the smaller pieces.

The oversleeve just gives you a bit more room for error. True, it can suffer from the same problems on the opposite side of the coin, but you've just got a little more leeway in materials and available strength/flexibility.

............

so the best solution for spigot ferrules is use solid graphite?