I would like some opinions on zap-a-gap flyline/leader/backing connections... Longevity? Strength? Flow through the guides?

I am thinking about converting some lines to this format in 7/8/9 line weights over the winter and using them on rods with size 6 or 7 ceramics for guides.

Thanks in advance for your advice. Best, Ladd

I've used the zap-a-gap connection on 5 wts.
I think it feeds through the guides much easier than knotted connections.
A well done zap-a-gap connection would slide right through your 6&7's. You will need to practice making these connections a few times to get them right, if done correctly they will last a long, long time. The loop will not fail and makes changing your leaders a snap.

One of the guys in our fly fishing club uses that connection on all his lines including the heavy saltwater 10 & 12 wt rods.

Tom

Anybody have instructions on how to make this connection?

Thanks
Tony

Tony,
Thats an easy one, just put it in Google. Dave Whitlock has a great illustrated info article on it on many websites. It's also in many fly fishing books from various authors.

I don't have the instructions I use right in front of me, but I'll give it a shot...

1) Soak a 3-5 inch section of the end of your fly line where your loop will be in acetone (finger nail polish remover)
This will soften the fly line and allow you to strip it off.
2) Take a section of mono and wrap it around the softened fly line, tighten and pull. This will stip it pretty clean. Leaving the core braid underneath exposed. Allow it to dry.
3) Insert a sewing needle into the core at the base of the fly line and out the side a 1/4 inch back. DO NOT go all the way through. Leave the needle 1/2 through.
This is done more easily using a very small "finger drill" (craft section at Wal-mart) to mount the needle and put the necessary pressure to get it into the fly line.
4) Take the braided core that has been exposed and trim to a point so that it can fit into the hole on the needle. Then use a set of pliers to pull the needle and braided core through the fly line and out 1/4 inch back.
5) Leave at least a 1/8 inch tag sticking through the fly line. (The following must be done quickly!!) Apply Zap-a-gap to the tag end. Pull the tag end into the 1/4 inch fly line section.
To remove any remaining tag end, stretch the 1/4 inch section and when it contracts it should cover it.

I have a way that's pretty easy. I use these connections exclusively, and fish about 200-250 days of the year. I've never had a connection fail, and have caught several fish in the 24-30" range on the system.

1. Take 3x tippet and make a half hitch around the fly line.

2. Tighten the half hitch about 1/2 inch from the end of the fly line.

3. Pull hard, using the 3x to strip off the outer coating of the line.

4. Use scissors to trim the braided nylon to approximately 1/2" in length.

5. Cut the leader at a severe taper to make a point.

6. Use the pointed leader (or a needle) to work the nylon braid apart in the center, pushing while rotating.

7. Place the leader into the nylon braid, and put cyanoacrylate cement onto the assembly.

8. Let dry.

9. If you're impatient, wet your fingers with saliva and roll the thing between your fingers to get the cyanoacrylate to "skin over".

10. Fish, fish, fish.

I take a small needle and crazy glue with me at all times. I can change leaders in about 2 min.

Mark.