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Sanding Epoxy
Posted by: Sean Walker (---.phxinternet.net)
Date: November 16, 2004 11:16AM

Okay, I read in another thread that you can sand epoxy. Is that right? Did I read that correctly? If so, with what do you sand it? It seems that it would leave a dull/scratchy finish. Does a new application of epoxy fix that?

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Re: Sanding Epoxy
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (---.152.57.81.Dial1.Atlanta1.Level3.net)
Date: November 16, 2004 11:22AM

You have to sand through subsequently finer and finer grades of paper. You can continue on through very fine paper and follow with plastic buffing compound to restore shine, or after about 400 - 600 grit you can recoat and the sanding scratches won't show.

........

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Re: Sanding Epoxy
Posted by: Sean Walker (---.phxinternet.net)
Date: November 16, 2004 11:28AM

what type of sand paper should I use? What grit do you start with?

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Re: Sanding Epoxy
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (---.152.57.81.Dial1.Atlanta1.Level3.net)
Date: November 16, 2004 11:32AM

Depends on what you're doing. If you need to removed large lumps or sags, then you'll need to block sand (preferably on a lathe) with about 150 to take down any truly large lumps or sags. When you get close to level, switch to 220 until you have contact all along the surface of the finish. Then move to 320, 400, 600 and refinish, or continue progressing to 800, 1000 and then plastic polish on a sewn wheel, followed by plastic polish on a loose wheel.

This all depends on how much finish you're working with. You do not want to sand into your threadwork.

..............

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Re: Sanding Epoxy
Posted by: John La Cava (---.core.hp.com)
Date: November 16, 2004 06:57PM

Tom,

How close to the original sheen can you get something like Flexcoat using the plastic buffing compound?

Also where can you obtain the plastic buffing compound?

Are there different manufacturers -- if yes can you indicate one with which you have had success?

Thanks -- John

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Re: Sanding Epoxy
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (---.152.54.6.Dial1.Atlanta1.Level3.net)
Date: November 17, 2004 09:05AM

As a matter of fact you can, but you do have to work through finer and finer grades of paper. You can't just start buffing after running up through 320 or 400 grit. You'll need to progress through at least 800 if not 1,000.

There are several types of plastic polish available. HUT makes a good one and Novus has a 2-part compound/polish that is outstanding. But, I've found that regular hardware store type DICO Blue Compound on a sewn wheel is about the best you can get for buffing and shining plastic or rod finish. You will want to be careful about getting epoxy too hot - it will soften a lot quicker than most plastics. So, let the compound and the wheel do the work, don't spin the wheel too fast nor apply too much pressure.

.........

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