I am on my third alcohol lamp. Is there one on the market that DOES NOT LEAK around the cap. I have tried putting cork gasket,and epoxy.No luck.All I am doing is spinning my wheels at this point. HELP!!!

Dick,
Do you have the Bubble buster Alcohol lamp? We have these available also for rodbuilders. I have used one for about 2 years every day, and no problems with leaking around the cap.

Rich
Richard's Rod & Reel

I also use a bubble buster and have been using the same one for about 10 years with no problems. I really like it because you can use it like a tourch by squeezing the plastic bottle and forcing air out the metal tube to make the flame go out like a tourch.

The bubble buster is certainly my choice for a dependable alcohol lamp. I got mine from Clemens Tackle several years ago. but I'm sure there are other retailers who carry it. Check the sites on the left of this page. John

I had same problem until I made my own cork stop and I also put masking tape around the cork, havent had a problem for about 5 years.. Thanks Dave's Rods

Dick
Alcohol lamps leak around the wick. They leak because when lit, the heat generated creates a pressure inside the bottle. When the flame is out the pressure is still there and pushes fluid out the wick. This can be eliminated by the simple act of loosening your cap. Loosen it ever so slightly and pressure will not build up inside. Just don't forget that you have loosened it as it may leak if set on its side.
Ralph

As usual, one of the pros points out the very thing that we overlook. My tendency is to tighten the cap more when it leaks. Guess that's why the leak only got worse! I'll loosed mine just a tad now.

The squeeze bottle of the bubble buster alcohol lamp you would want to keep the cap tight. Pressure release is through a nozzle there already. Loosining the cap would make the contents leak upon being squeezed. There is a cap that is kept on the lamp after extinguishing, but let it cool off first as it could melt.

Rich
Richard's Rod & Reel

Dick,

I don't want to change the way you do things. Thought I would give you another option. I use a butane cigar tourch. The high intensity heat means I can keep the tip of the flame atleast 3 or 4 inches away from the epoxy. The flame is shot out under high pressure. You can sweep the flame through the air in any direction, and the flame doesn't lay down or quiver, the heat always shoots ahead of the flame. This means you can be very accurate with the direction of the heat, gives you alot of control. Since I started using a cigar tourch I have not boiled or smudged any epoxy. They can be alittle pricey compared to alcohol lamps, but it works for me. They are refillable.

Bill Doherty

Bill,
The mini butane torch are a good idea as you mention and the procudure for certain finishes like Flex Coat to remove bubbles, although you wouldn't want to use this on LS Supreme as heating this finish only results in more bubbles.
The idea of the bubble buster lamp is for economy with fuel to be sure, as a refill of denatured alcohol only costs pennies as compared to the butane cartridges. Also, when using the bubble buster one can simply give a quick squeeze to propel the flame to a certain spot of bubble without actually adding lots of heat. You could also do this by blowing throught a small diameter straw on LS Supreme. I sort of use the bubble buster for double duty for a variety of tasks in busting bubbles as well as warming finish like flex coat, when it is felt necessary.

Rich

Why do more bubble form when heat is added to LS supreme? I had that problem the other day...it was my first time with LS supreme

Don,

LS Supreme generates heat on it's own. That is why it cures bubble free. Adding more heat to LS Supreme will cause it to boil, thus generating alot of tiny bubbles, that remain trapped after it cures.

Rich,

Sorry to interupt your sales pitch.

Bill Doherty