Does anyone apply epoxy to guide wraps
while the rod is spinning in the lathe? Or is it better to apply first, then spin it? Is it better to do one thick coat, or lots of thin ones untill it is smooth? Whats a good speed
for spinning rods with fresh epoxy?

I finish the wraps completely off the stand, allowing the completed sections to turn at a very low rpm. I never have had any luck trying to level a lumpy wrap with a second coat, so use very thin coats. Lately, I have been finishing with 2 coats of varnish and one of epoxy to get the smoothest possible finish.

Levi -
I apply epoxy to the guide areas (the areas where the guide comes closest to the blank with the rod in the dryer but stationary - do one side then the other. I apply the remainder (out toward the ends of the wraps) with the rod turning as I am able to get a much more even, smooth finish on the wrap ends that way. I routinely use two thin coats of epoxy except on the heaviest rods when I switch to one thin coat ("lite build") followed several hours later by a thicker ("high build") finish. Although I have no proof I think (or feel) that I get better penetration into the threads with a first thin application - and more even "fill" under the wraps in the tunnel between the guide foot and blank - when a color preserver is not used. I also use a small heat gun (hobby model) to warm the finish while it is turning to remove any small bubbles that might develop.

I do get the wraps in one coat of high build finish, but too much finish is too much and will cause "footballs". I guess experience is the key here. Putting too much on will cause you problems. Might be better to go with two thinner coats until you get the hang of it.
Putter

I have always only applied finish to a turning rod. I have a 4rpm mtor, and an 18 rom motor. I can get level wraps with either, but am becoming more adapted to the faster motor. I apply and dry on the same speed. I traditionally use two to three coats of FlexCoat Lite Build, but just ordered high build, mainly for repairs I want to turn around with as little labor and time as possible. Most often, even with metallics, I am applying over CP, so I don't get thread penetration. I count on the CP to act as a thread lock, and then do my finish.

When applying epoxy, I have the rod in the rollers, but I turn it by hand for maximum control.

Once I get the epoxy applied, I drop down my drying motor and let it take over from there. I think the drying motor I have turns at about 20 RPM.

Two coats is certainly a good way for an excellent finish. For your first coat, apply epoxy heavily, soak the threads for a minute and then remove all the epoxy you can wick off. Let dry, and then apply a "good looking" second coat, and your final product should look very professional.

Yes, I apply finish with the rod mounted in a lathe. To do the edges of the thread I spin the rod at a moderate speed - too fast and the finish slings off. The speed helps make a nice clean edge just beyond the thread edge (onto the blank itself). Since the lathe turns easily I can do the areas around the guide feet without any trouble.

I am real careful not to dab finish over the tunnel openings to allow the air to vent as the finish wicks into the thread. I too use two coats - the 1st a thin "wetting" coat that is so thin that the thread texture is plainly visible, so thin that there is no way for bubbles to form since there is no surface tension. The 2nd coat goes on a little thick and is what build up the coating. I don't use color preserver since I want thread pentration by the epoxy finish only. I use a propane torch to lightly flame the 2nd finishing coat if needed to get rid of bubbles.

BTW, the finishing rod lathe is used only for finishing.

Lou

Levi,
I use a Flexcoat turning motor at 18RPM while applying epoxy. This is a good speed for applying the clear rings at ends of thread, and then remains on for drying the clear. This motor is a little spendy, but has seen thousands of hours of use and is still going strong! I use Flexcoat Lite, and have also used the PacBay Rodsmith 2 part epoxy with good results. Using two coats gives me the best results, but I do many with one coat. Angler's Workshop sells a little torch called a Bubble Buster, which uses denatured alcohol, and works great for heating the epoxy to remove bubbles. This also causes it to sag faster, for evening up the coat. Just take care applying heat against a graphite blank- it only takes a second of direct heat to destroy the blank. Good Luck! *Fran- if you're doing repairs of one or two guides, try Rodbuilder's. It only requires half an hour of turning, and is usable in a couple hours. I also use 5 minute on a single wrap repair, but it is very touchy! If it gets too hot while removing bubbles, it will lock in place. At best I have 3 minutes work time with it, at worst less than a minute.

I put mine on a turning rod. About 18. I use Glass Coat thined till there are no bubbles in it. " one thing not to worry about " Put it starting in the center and working to the ends. let it sit a few minutes then apply more. No bubbles, levels very well

I apply LS with a motor that runs at 40RPM.I definitely like it and it makes making straight lines along the threa edges a breeze.I can still dry at 40RPM as well with LS if I have to(haven't had any problems with it),but will probably build up another motor setup soon and drop my driers down to 18-20RPM.

The 40RPM motor is pretty versatile for me.I'm not sure what speed would be best on a lathe though?

Mine is a 40 RPM motor that is geared to also run at a slow speed. This way I use the high speed to coat the butt wraps and handles and then slow it down for the guide wraps by means of O-Rings on different size pulles

??? If you are applying finish while the motor is turning how do you deal ithe the security wraps past a single foot V frame guide. If the thing is turning you must be quick!! Flexcoat slip clutch looks like the only way to me or stop the thing from turning and apply manually. I have watched the guys at Allstar in Houston applying finish to a seven foot casting rod in 13 seconds at 200 rpm - but they don't wrap past the guide.

Gon Fishn